Intimate, neighborhoody, and chic all at once, ONE manages to feel casual and upscale at the same time. The interior is sleek and sophisticated, while the kitchen is wide open. Even though the restaurant is pretty much as far uptown as you can go, it's more than worth the trip. Chef Scott Snodgrass and co-owner Lee McCullough are the perfect hosts, and seem to love every minute of it. Typical of Snodgrass's creations are pan-fried flounder atop spaghetti squash gratin and the beef tenderloin with beef rillettes and Stilton cheese.