Understatement defines the mood at locally beloved Clancy's, and the classy but neutral decor reflects this, though the scene can get lively. The small bar is usually filled with regulars who know one another—and tourists who wish they were regulars. Most of the dishes are imaginative treatments of New Orleans favorites. Some specialties, like the seasonal smoked soft-shell crab, are exceptional. Other signs of an inventive chef are the expertly fried oysters matched with warm Brie, and a peppermint-ice cream pie. On more festive nights you may yearn for earplugs. The expansive wine list has many New World and French options, with many bottles available for under $100.