Nightlife & the Arts in New Orleans

New Orleans's fabled nightlife was one of the first things to rebound from Hurricane Katrina; indeed, one French Quarter bar, Johnny White's, never closed its doors throughout the entire disaster, serving warm beer by candlelight and keeping a 24-7 vigil until the rest of the city returned to join them. Sure enough, Bourbon Street is once again awash in neon and noise.

Many New Orleans artists, who found themselves in a limelight of national and international attention, have used the depth of their experiences to produce some of the most vibrant music, theater, literature, and creative work to come out of New Orleans in decades. From the colorful performances of the Wild Magnolia Mardi Gras Indians to the Pulitzer-nominated plays of John Biguenet, New Orleans music and culture has been infused with new inspirations, both uplifting and tragic, and is reaching wider audiences than ever. More than just jazz and blues, the city features rock, hip-hop, avant-garde fusion, Cajun and zydeco, folk, electronica, and homegrown New Orleans R&B.

Wherever you go, you're sure to find a venue that suits your tastes. Quiet and charming or wild and raucous. New and chic or 1800s elegant. Whether you're looking for the simple pleasures of a local brew, or something entirely more decadent, this is a city that lives to accommodate. And while Bourbon Street, with its bright lights and beers-to-go, is usually one of the first stops for visitors, it's not truly representative of the city. The real soul of New Orleans nightlife lies in the out-of-the-way clubs, the impromptu street parties, and the music that wafts from rustic dives.

If you don't care for the club scene, or have kids in tow, you can always take to the streets. Throughout the French Quarter, and especially along Royal Street and Jackson Square, brass bands, gypsy bands, and blues performers play for tips and applause. Outdoor cafés along Decatur Street have live jazz bands most days of the week, and the National Park Service sponsors free live music shows at a couple of locations in the French Quarter: the patio of its headquarters at 419 Decatur Street, and on a stage at the French Market visitor center for the New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park (919 North Peters Street)—which also has a good selection of books and CDs. Call 504/589-4841 or visit www.nps.gov/jazz for a schedule. The Louisiana Music Factory (210 Decatur Street), which is the city's greatest record store for local music, hosts in-store appearances by artists. Call ahead for a schedule and information at 504/586-1094 or visit www.louisianamusicfactory.com.