Practical Matters

Bars tend to open in the early afternoon and stay open well into the morning hours. Live music, while abundant, is a little less predictable. A handful of French Quarter clubs have sets beginning in the early afternoon, and many more venues will get going around 6. For the most part, however, gigs begin between 10 and 11 pm, and this is when you'll spot locals descending on their favorite night spots. Bear in mind that many venues operate on "New Orleans time," meaning that if a show is advertised for 10 pm then it might kick off closer to 11.

Dress codes are as rare as snow in this city. On any given night in the French Quarter, and especially during the Carnival season, you'll see everything from tuxedoes to tutus, from fairy wings and ball gowns to T-shirts and torn jeans.

Many bars on Bourbon Street entice visitors by presenting bands or strip shows with no cover charge. They make their money by imposing a one- or two-drink minimum, with draft beer or soft drinks costing $5 to $8 apiece. In general prices for beer, wine, and cocktails range from $4 to $9, unless you land in a good neighborhood dive bar, and then the prices can drop by as much as half. Music clubs generally charge a flat cover between $5 and $20, with the high-end prices usually reserved for national touring artists, holidays, and special occasions.

A great source of information and entertainment is WWOZ at 90.7 FM, the public radio station which showcases New Orleans music and announces a nightly calendar of concerts and events. For more detailed event listings, consult the Friday "Lagniappe" section of the Times-Picayune, or pick up a copy of Gambit, the alternative weekly that is carried free in many bars, cafés, and stores. The monthly OffBeat magazine has in-depth coverage of local music and venues and is available at many hotels, stores, and restaurants. All these publications have up-to-date listings on their Web sites.