Striking a pose between friendly and refined, this spot has comforting food, a cozy setting, and polished service. Chef Erwin Drechsler often patrols the dining room of his namesake restaurant, greeting regulars. The straightforward, seasonal menu may not look all that different from other upscale American menus—skate sautéed with zucchini, cherry tomatoes, garlic, and fingerling potatoes; wood-grilled flank steak with smoked Gouda mashed potatoes; and one of the city's
best burgers—but the skillful cooking and vibrant flavors make you respect simplicity. The booths by the front windows are the best for views of neighborhood comings and goings.