Kibitzing counter cooks provide commentary as they sling the chow -- thick pastrami sandwiches, soul-nurturing matzo-ball soup, and piping-hot potato pancakes -- at this classic South Side cafeteria. Though they occasionally bark at dawdlers, it's all in good fun; looking for seating in two teaming, fluorescent-lit rooms is not. Don't try to pay the hash-slingers; settle up as you leave.
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