Kibitzing counter cooks provide commentary as they sling the chow—thick pastrami sandwiches, soul-nurturing matzoh-ball soup, and piping-hot potato pancakes—at this classic Near-South-Side cafeteria. Though they occasionally bark at dawdlers, it's all in good fun; looking for seating in two teeming, fluorescent-lit rooms is not. Don't try to pay the hash-slingers; settle up as you leave.
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