Don't call this beer-focused hot spot a gastropub—chef Paul Kahan (of Blackbird fame) prefers "beer hall" (though wine is available, too). Certainly the long communal tables, at which beer connoisseurs sample from a selection hovering around 100 brews, give the bustling space the air of an Oktoberfest celebration. Chef de cuisine Brian Huston's seafood- and pork-focused menu does give an elevated nod to pub fare, though, and diners share shucked oysters and just-fried
pork rinds before tucking into grilled, smoky country ribs, fried perch, and beef-heart tartare. Arrive early or call for a reservation—seating fills up fast.