Subtle, smoky aromas from a wood grill unleash appetites at this modest Bucktown restaurant. A large chalkboard, which displays chef-owners Rob and Alli Levitt's daily menus, doubles as the dining room's main design element. Equally understated dishes showcase locally grown or raised foodstuffs, such as radishes with creamy salted butter; wood-grilled mushrooms; and slow-cooked pork belly. Small portions encourage menu exploration, and the best bet is to start with a few antipasti-like ricotta-topped bruschetta with hazelnuts and arugula to share. Although desserts change constantly, seek out Alli Levitt's shortbread cookies when available. Mado is waiting for its liquor license and is temporarily BYOB; call ahead to see if status has changed.
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