Guests groove to the tunes of Wilco and The Police while sampling Chef Graham Elliot Bowles' inventive fare, some of which foodies may recognize from the chef's stint orchestrating elaborate tasting menus at Avenues (for reference, try the cheddar-apple risotto). Yet much of the menu, from "BLT-style" salmon (salmon served with pancetta vinaigrette) to pork prime rib will satisfy diners in far fewer courses than the old Avenues tasting menu did. Service can be unconventional: servers take dessert orders at the start of the meal, for example. Yet the boisterous space with exposed brick walls succeeds in combining a casual vibe with fine dining flourish. Bowles calls it "bistronomic;" his fans simply call it good eating.
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