Decades ago Yoshi's launched as a pricey fine-dining restaurant in the 'hood. We offer this history lesson to say that while the atmosphere went jeans-casual and the prices south, the cooking quality remained, and remains, high. Yoshi Katsumura turns out informal French-Asian, like duck breast with baked quail egg in brioche or roasted Japanese pumpkin filled with tofu (it's good enough to convert a carnivore). Sunday brunch includes the expected eggs along with a Japanese-inspired breakfast (rice, tofu, and seaweed).
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