Creative Chinese fare and theatrical design share the stage at Opera. Only top-flight ingredients and sparing sauces go into the cooking, distinguishing the five-spice squid, say, or lobster spring roll or roasted Scottish salmon from more familiar take-out fare. Former film-storage vaults -- the building was once used by Paramount Studios -- now hold a series of tables for two, providing intimacy for those who want it. Everyone else revels in the eye candy that includes Asian newspaper collages, oversize suspended lamps, and a multicolor-glass-wrapped wine cellar.
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