Leave pretense downtown. Chef Shawn McClain's artistic but unfussy fish preparations—from Kumomoto oysters with grated fresh wasabi root to Atlantic skate wing, white polenta, and roasted cauliflower—distinguish the sophisticated Spring from the seasonal restaurant. Like McClain's cooking, the restaurant's interior design faces east for inspiration, beginning with a rock garden in the foyer. Original white glazed-tile walls hearken back to the space's former life as a bathhouse.
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