Chef Shawn McClain took the vegetable side dish and ran it up the marquee, earning raves nationwide for giving vegetables the gourmet treatment. But don't call it vegetarian, McClain says—it's "flexitarian," mostly veggie but not strictly so. The result gives good-for-you vegetables the starring role in a sleek shop suave enough to seduce the most ardent meat lovers. Chef de cuisine Jon DuBois changes the menu seasonally with dishes such as creamy white corn polenta cake with garlic scapes, Burrata cheese with pickled beets, or foraged maitake mushrooms with housemade kimchi. The occasional fish dish—like pan-seared trout—makes do for carnivores.