In some corners gaudy and Gothic, in others plush and exotic, and still others practically medieval, the detail in this remodeled restaurant is otherworldly. Wander under the glowing wine tunnel, past a wiry-haired Medusa, or head upstairs to the open-air Luna Bar and shisha-style Taz Lounge with views of the water. On hot summer days, you can sit on the deck and sip an “ice-tini” from a glass made of ice; at any time, you can enjoy hefty portions of South American–style
barbecue, like the fillet with cognac sauce grilled on hot river rock. For dessert, try the ice-cream lollipop tree or glowing cotton-candy cake.