Molokai is a great place to be outdoors. And that's a good thing, because with only about 8,000 residents Molokai has very little of what you would call "indoors." There are no tall buildings, no traffic lights, no streetlights, no stores bearing the names of national chains, and nothing at all like a resort. Among the Hawaiian Islands, Molokai has distinguished itself as the one least interested in attracting tourists. At night the whole island grows dark, creating a velvety blackness and a wonderful, rare thing called silence.