Hiking in Molokai

Rural and rugged, Molokai is an excellent place for hiking. Roads and developments are few, so the outdoors is always beckoning. The island is steep, so hikes often combine spectacular views with hearty physical exertion. Because the island is small, you can traverse quite a bit of it on foot and come away with the feeling of really knowing the place. And you won't see many other people around. Just remember that much of what may look like deserted land is private property, so be careful not to trespass without permission or an authorized guide.

Best Spots

Kalaupapa Trail. You can make a day of hiking down to Kalaupapa Peninsula and back by means of a 3-mi, 26-switchback trail. The trail is nearly vertical, traversing the face of some of the highest sea cliffs in the world. Only those in excellent condition should attempt this hike. You must book with Damien Tours to access the trail and see the peninsula.

Kamakou Preserve. Four-wheel drive is essential for this half-day (minimum) journey into the Molokai highlands. The Nature Conservancy of Hawaii manages the 2,774-acre Kamakou Preserve, one of the last stands of Hawaii's native plants and birds. A long, rough dirt road, which begins not far from Kaunakakai town, leads to the preserve. The road is not marked, so you must check in with the Nature Conservancy's Molokai office (At Molokai Industrial Park about 3 mi west of Kaunakakai, 23 Pueo Pl., 96748. 808/553-5236. www.nature.org) for directions. Let them know that you plan to visit the preserve, and pick up the informative 24-page brochure with trail maps.

On your way up to the preserve, be sure to stop at Waikolu Overlook, which gives a view into a precipitous north-shore canyon. Once inside the preserve, various trails are clearly marked. The trail of choice—and you can drive right to it—is the 1.5-mi boardwalk trail through Pepeopae Bog, an ecological treasure. Organic deposits here date back at least 10,000 years, and the plants are undisturbed natives. This is the landscape of prediscovery Hawaii and can be a mean trek. Wear long pants and bring rain gear. Your shoes ought to provide good traction on the slippery, narrow boardwalk and muddy trails.

Kawela Cul-de-Sacs. Just east of Kaunakakai, three streets—Kawela One, Two, and Three—jut up the mountainside from the Kamehameha V Highway. These roads end in cul-de-sacs that are also informal trailheads. Rough dirt roads work their way from here to the top of the mountain. The lower slopes are dry, rocky, steep, and austere. (It's good to start in the cool of the early morning.) A hiker in good condition can get all the way up into the high forest in two or three hours. There's no park ranger and no water fountain. These are not for the casual stroller. But you will be well rewarded.

Going with a Guide

Halawa Valley Cultural Waterfall Hike. Halawa is a gorgeous, steep-walled valley carved by two rivers and rich in history. Site of the earliest Polynesian settlement on Molokai, Halawa sustained island culture with its ingeniously designed loi, or taro fields. In the 1960s, because of changing cultural conditions and a great flood, the valley became derelict. Now Hawaiian families are restoring the loi and taking visitors on guided walks through the valley, which includes two of Molokai's luakini heiau (sacred temples). Half-day visits, starting at 9:30 AM or 2 PM cost $75 (less for children) and support the work of restoration. Call ahead to book your visit. Bring water, food, and insect repellent, and wear shoes that are stable and can get wet. 808/553-9803. www.gomolokai.com. $75.

Historical Hikes of West Molokai. This company has six guided hikes, ranging from two to six hours. The outings focus on Molokai's cultural past, and take you to sites such as an ancient quarry, an early fishing village, or high sea cliffs where Hawaiian chiefs played games during the traditional Makahiki (harvest festival) season. Backpacks are provided, as is lunch on intermediate and advanced hikes. Guides Lawrence and Catherine Aki are knowledgeable and passionate about Hawaiian culture. 808/552-0184, 808/553-5926, or 800/274-9303. www.gomolokai.com. $45-$125.