Maui Restaurants

In the mid-1990s, Maui and the rest of Hawaii erupted as a gastronomic force. Bold colors and bold flavors were coaxed from the island's freshest ingredients and Hawaii Regional Cuisine (modern Hawaiian fare) was born.

Menus began to feature dishes such as ahi caught in deep water off of Keanae, grilled with peppercorn in Hanakua mushroom-basil sauce; crunchy tempura ahi roll with pea shoot slaw, wasabi tobiko crème fraîche, and pickled cucumber; and succulent Kona lobster with ginger carrot risotto, tarragon, and coral butter. Even desserts got a makeover, bending all culinary conventions to create such specialties as the Polynesian Black Pearl (as seen on the Rachel Ray Show), which looks as if it were an oversize chocolate replica of the real thing; and macadamia-nut tacos packed with tropical fruits and lilikoi (passion fruit) custard.

This sustainable style of cooking is no flash in the pan and its popularity continues throughout the Islands. The premise is to raise awareness of the state's indigenous cuisine, and to encourage farmers to grow more produce and fishers to know they have a source for their days of work on the water. Maui can now boast award-winning Surfing Goat Dairy cheeses, a host of lavender food products from Alii Kula Lavender, island grass-fed beef from Maui Cattle Co., and juicy vine-ripened tomatoes from Olowalu Nui Farms. The list goes on and on.

Some of Hawaii Regional Cuisine's original 12 chefs still live on the island and remain successful restaurateurs. They include Beverly Gannon of Haliimaile General Store and Joe's, Peter Merriman of Hula Grill and Merriman's Kapalua, and Mark Ellman of Mala restaurants, Maui Tacos, and Penne Pasta fame. They have been around so long that they've spawned a whole other culinary generation called the Hawaii Island Chefs. Leading many top kitchens here, some of these HIC wunderkinds are huge successes and have their own farms. Countless chefs in small mom-and-pop shops also either grow their own, or buy locally to support the vast agricultural resources in this remote tropical state, reducing the carbon footprint and offering up fresh tastes of island cuisine. When mango trees are loaded with juicy fruit, hey, there's no reason to ship in hard-as-a-rock, under-ripe peaches from 6,000 mi away in Georgia.

If you want to get off the beaten path and hunt down ethnic and local-style restaurants, you can eat well at thrifty prices. Check out historic downtown Wailuku on First Friday (the first Friday of every month) with its market-style atmosphere. Restaurants take their foods out onto the sidewalks, and entertainment is on every corner. Head Upcountry to Makawao for a taste of paniolo(cowboy) country, or for fun restaurants and bars try the small town of Paia on the booming North Shore. Do be a little forgiving about the ambience in some of these places, especially Lower Main Street in Wailuku, as they may be stuck in a time warp with no renovations in sight. But that's part of the real deal, the eccentricity that makes Maui no ka oi (the best).

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