Take time to trek down into Haleakala National Park's massive bowl and see proof, at this dormant volcano, of how very powerful the earth's exhalations can be. The cinder cones have beautiful swirls of subtle colors that can sparkle in the sunlight. You won't see landscape like this anywhere, outside of visiting the moon. The barren terrain is deceptive, however—many of the world's rarest plants, birds, and insects live here.
Spectacular views of waterfalls, lush forests, and the sparkling ocean are part of the pleasure of the twisting drive along the North Shore to tiny, timeless Hana in East Maui. The journey is the destination, but once you arrive, kick back and enjoy. Wave to pedestrians, "talk story" with locals in line at Hasegawa store, and explore the multicolor beaches. An overnight stay here allows for the most relaxed experience, though; a day trip here is a big push. You may decide to drive just part of the way as an alternative.
Snorkeling is a must, either on your own with a buddy or on a snorkel cruise. Maui has snorkel boats of all sizes. Wherever you duck under, you'll be inducted into a mesmerizing world underwater. Slow down and keep your eyes open: even fish dressed in camouflage can be spotted when they snatch at food passing by. Some great spots to try right near the shore are Honolua Bay and Kekaa (also known as Black Rock; it's in front of the Sheraton Maui) in West Maui; there are also good spots on the rocky fringes of Wailea's beaches on the South Shore.
This South Shore beauty is the sand dreams are made of: deep, golden, and pillowy. Don't be discouraged by the crammed parking lots; there's more than enough room. Makena (Oneloa in Hawaiian) is still wild. There are no hotels, minimarts, or even public restrooms nearby—instead there's crystal-clear water, the occasional pod of dolphins, and drop-dead gorgeous scenery (including the sunbathers). You can grab a fish taco and a drink at a nearby truck.
Your first taste of ripe guava or mango is something to remember. Delicious lychees, mangoes, star fruit, bananas, passion fruit, and papaya can be bought on the side of the road with the change in your pocket. Go on, let the juice run down your chin. No one's looking!
Indulge your inner rock star at the posh, pampering resorts and spas around the island. Sip a "Tommy Girl" in the hot tub at the Four Seasons or get massaged poolside at the Grand Wailea. Even if you don't stay the night, you can enjoy the opulent gardens, restaurants, art collections, and perfectly cordial staff. For pure relaxation, set up a spa treatment such as a lavender scrub.
Being a shut-in isn't so bad at a secluded B&B. It's a sure way to get a taste of what it's like to live in Paradise: ripe fruit trees outside your door, late-night tropical rainstorms, a wild chicken or two. Rather than blasting the air-conditioning in a hotel room, relax with the windows open in a plantation house designed to capture sea breezes.
Maui is the cradle for hundreds of humpback whales that return every year to frolic in the warm waters and give birth. Watch a mama whale teach her 1-ton calf how to tail-wave. You can eavesdrop on them, too: book a tour boat with a hydrophone or just plunk your head underwater to hear the strange squeaks, groans, and chortles of the cetaceans.
Before his untimely death in 1997, Israel Kamakawiwoole, or "IZ," woke the world to the sound of modern Hawaiian music. Don't leave without hearing it live. The Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Kahului has top Hawaiian entertainers regularly, and so do many island bars and restaurants. The Wednesday-night Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar concert series at the Napili Kai Beach Resort in West Maui is excellent. The Slack Key Guitar Festival (checkwww.slackkeyfestival.com) features guest performers who play Hawaii's signature style.
Feel the thrill of a wave rushing beneath your feet at any one of the beginner's breaks along Honoapiilani Highway. Ask local surf schools about the best locations for beginners. You can bring surf wax home as a souvenir.
The Old Lahaina Luau has a warm heart—and seriously good poke (chopped, raw tuna tossed with herbs and other seasonings). Tuck a flower behind your ear, mix a dab of poi (paste made from pounded taro root) with your lomilomi (rubbed with onions and herbs) salmon, and you'll be living like a local. Different styles of hula are part of the performance; the fire dancers may not be traditional, but they are fun. Reserve well in advance of your trip.
Spectacular views, great weather year-round, and awesome, challenging courses created by the game's top designers make Maui an inspiring place to play golf. The Kapulua Resort on West Maui and the Wailea and Makena resort courses on the South Shore, among others, offer memorable rounds. Check about twilight fees to save some money. A number of professional golf tournaments held on Maui are worth watching, too.
Die-hard beach lovers might need some arm-twisting to head up the mountain for a day, but the 360-degree views and the fresh-smelling countryside are ample reward. On the roads winding through ranchlands, crisp, high-altitude air is scented with eucalyptus and lavender. Stop for an agricultural tour and learn about where the island's bounty comes from; you can sample it, too.
"Ono kine grinds" is local slang for delicious food you'll find at dozens of restaurants island-wide. Maui chefs take their work seriously, and they have good material to start with: sun-ripened produce (don't pass up sweet Maui Gold pineapples) and seafood caught the very same morning. Try a plate lunch, that reminder of the state's cultural mix, at a casual spot. Sample as many types of fish as you can and don't be shy: try it raw.
You might not be a water-sports legend, but that doesn't mean you can't get out on the water and give it a try. In the early morning, some of windsurfing's big-wave spots are safe for beginners. Don't settle for the pond in front of your hotel—book a lesson on the North Shore and impress yourself by hanging tough where the action is.