Horseback Riding in Maui

Several companies on Maui offer horseback riding that's far more appealing than the typical hour-long trudge over a dull trail with 50 other horses.

Going with a Guide

Maui Stables. Hawaiian-owned and run, this company provides a trip back in time, to an era when life moved more slowly and reverently—though galloping is allowed, if you're able to handle your horse! Educational tours begin at the stable in remote Kipahulu (near Hana), and pass through several historic Hawaiian sites. Before heading up into the forest, your guides intone the words to a traditional oli, or chant, asking for permission to enter. By the time you reach the mountain pasture overlooking Waimoku Falls, you'll feel lucky to have been a part of the tradition. Both morning and afternoon rides are available at $150 per rider. Between mile markers 40 and 41 on Hwy. 37, Hana, 96713. 808/248-7799. www.mauistables.com.

Mendes Ranch. Family-owned and run, Mendes operates out of the beautiful ranchland of Kahakuloa on the windward slopes of the West Maui Mountains. Two-hour morning and afternoon trail rides ($110) are available with an optional barbecue lunch ($20). Cowboys will take you cantering up rolling pastures into the lush rain forest to view some of Maui's biggest waterfalls. Mendes caters to weddings and parties and offers private trail rides on request. Should you need accommodations they have a home and bunk for rent right on the property. 3530 Kahekili Hwy., Wailuku, 96793. 808/244-7320 or 800/871-5222. www.mendesranch.com.

Piiholo Ranch. The local wranglers here will lead you on a rousing ride through family ranchlands—up hillside pastures, beneath a eucalyptus canopy, and past many native trees. Morning and afternoon "country" rides last two hours and cost $120. Their well-kept horses navigate the challenging terrain easily, but hold on when axis deer pass by! Private rides and lessons are available. End of Waiahiwi Rd., Makawao, 96768. 808/357-5544. www.piiholo.com.

Pony Express Tours. Pony Express Tours offers trips on horseback into Haleakala Crater. The half-day ride goes down to the crater floor for a picnic lunch, and is a great way to see the top of the dormant volcano. The company also offers 1½- and 2-hour rides on the slopes of the Haleakala Ranch. Prices range from $95 to $182. 808/667-2200. www.ponyexpresstours.com.

On the Sidelines

At the Kapalua Jr. Vet/Sr. Tennis Championships in May, players compete in singles and doubles events. Over Labor Day weekend, the Kapalua Open Tennis Tournament calls Hawaii's hitters to Kapalua's Tennis Garden. Both events are put on by the Kapalua Tennis Club (808/665-9112). The Wailea Open Tennis Championship (808/879-1958) is held at the Wailea Tennis Club in May.

Cowboy Fun: Rodeos & Polo

Cowboys aren't always working, and you can watch them having fun at rodeos and polo matches.

With working cattle ranches throughout the Islands, many youngsters learn to ride a horse before they can drive a car. Mauians love their rodeos and put on several for students at high schools.

Paniolos (Hawaiian cowboys) get in on the action, too, at three major annual events: the Oskie Rice Memorial Rodeo, usually staged the weekend after Labor Day; the Cancer Benefit Rodeo in April; and Maui's biggest event, drawing competitors from all the Islands as well as the U.S. mainland, the 4th of July Rodeo, which comes with a full parade in Makawao town and festivities that last for days.

Polo is popular with the Upcountry paniolos(Hawaiian cowboys). From April through June, Haleakala Ranch hosts "indoor" or arena contests on a field flanked by side boards. The field is on Route 377, 1 mi from Route 37. During the "outdoor" polo season, September to mid-November, matches are held at Olinda Field, 1 mi above Makawao on Olinda Road. There's a $5 admission for most games, which start at 1 PM on Sunday. The Manduke Baldwin Memorial Tournament (808/877-7744. www.mauipoloclub.com) occurs on Memorial Day and is a popular two-day event. The Maui Polo Club draws challengers from Argentina, England, South Africa, New Zealand, and Australia. For information, call or visit the Web site.