No one should leave Maui without ducking underwater to meet a sea turtle, moray eel, or humuhumunukunukuapuaa—the state fish. Visibility is best in the morning, before the wind picks up.

There are two ways to approach snorkeling—by land or by sea. Daily around 7 AM, a parade of boats heads out to Lanai or Molokini Crater, that ancient cone of volcanic cinder off the coast of Wailea. Boat trips offer some advantages—deeper water, seasonal whale-watching, crew assistance, lunch, and gear. But you don't need a boat; much of Maui's best snorkeling is found just steps from the road. Nearly the entire leeward coastline from Kapalua south to Ahihi-Kinau offers prime opportunities to ogle fish and turtles. If you're patient and sharp-eyed, you may glimpse eels, octopuses, lobsters, eagle rays, and even a rare shark or monk seal.

Best Spots

Snorkel sites here are listed from north to south, starting at the northwest corner of the island.

On the west side of the island, just north of Kapalua, Honolua Bay (Between mile markers 32 and 33 on Rte. 30, dirt road to left, 96761) Marine Life Conservation District has a superb reef for snorkeling. When conditions are calm, it's one of the island's best spots with tons of fish and colorful corals to observe. Make sure to bring a fish key with you, as you're sure to see many species of triggerfish, filefish, and wrasses. The coral formations on the right side of the bay are particularly dramatic and feature pink, aqua, and orange varieties. Take care entering the water; there's no beach and the rocks and concrete ramp can be slippery.

The northeast corner of this windward-facing bay periodically gets hammered by big waves in winter, and high-profile surf contests are held here. Avoid the bay then, and after a heavy rain (you'll know because Honolua stream will be running across the access path).

Just minutes south of Honolua, dependable Kapalua Bay (From Rte. 30, turn onto Kapalua Pl., and walk through tunnel, 96761) beckons. As beautiful above the water as it is below, Kapalua is exceptionally calm, even when other spots get testy. Needle and butterfly fish dart just past the sandy beach, which is why it's sometimes crowded. Sand can be particularly hot here; watch your toes!

We think Black Rock (In front of Kaanapali Sheraton Maui, Kaanapali Pkwy., 96761), at the northernmost tip of Kaanapali Beach on West Maui, is tops for snorkelers of any skill level. The entry couldn't be easier—dump your towel on the sand in front of the Sheraton Maui resort and in you go. Beginners can stick close to shore and still see lots of action. Advanced snorkelers can swim beyond the sand to the tip of Black Rock, or Kekaa Point, to see larger fish and eagle rays. One of the underwater residents, a turtle named "Volkswagen" for its hefty size, can be found here. He sits very still; you must look closely. Equipment can be rented on-site. Parking, in a small lot adjoining the hotel, is the only hassle.

Along Honoapiilani Highway (Route 30) there are several favorite snorkel sites including the area just out from the cemetery at Hanakaoo Beach Park (Near mile marker 23 on Rte. 30, 96761). At depths of 5 and 10 feet, you can see a variety of corals, especially as you head south toward Waihikuli Wayside Park. Farther down the highway, the shallow coral reef at Olowalu (South of Olowalu General Store on Rte. 30, at mile marker 14, 96761) is good for a quick underwater tour, though the best spot is a ways out, at depths of 25 feet or more. Closer to shore, the visibility can be hit or miss, but if you're willing to venture out about 50 yards, you'll have easy access to an expansive coral reef with abundant fish life—no boat required. Swim offshore toward the pole sticking out of the reef. Except for during a south swell, this area is calm and good for families with small children; turtles are plentiful. Boats sometimes stop nearby (they refer to this site as "Coral Gardens") on their return trip from Molokini.

Excellent snorkeling is found down the coastline between Kihei and Makena on the South Shore. The best spots are along the rocky fringes of Wailea's beaches, Mokapu, Ulua, Wailea, and Polo, off Wailea Alanui Drive. Find one of the public parking lots sandwiched between Wailea's luxury resorts, and enjoy these beaches' sandy entries, calm waters with relatively good visibility, and variety of fish species. Of the four beaches, Ulua has the best reef. You can glimpse a box-shaped puffer fish here, and listen to snapping shrimp and parrot fish nibbling on coral.

Between Maui and neighboring Kahoolawe, 3 mi offshore from Wailea, is the world-famous Molokini Crater. Its crescent-shaped rim provides a sanctuary for birds and marine life and draws masses of snorkel and dive tours year-round. Most snorkeling tour operators offer a Molokini trip. The journey to this sunken crater takes more than 90 minutes from Lahaina, an hour from Maalaea, and half an hour from the South Shore.

At the very southernmost tip of paved road in South Maui lies Ahihi-Kinau (Just before end of Makena Alanui Rd., follow marked trails through trees, 96732) Natural Area Reserve, also referred to as La Pérouse Bay. Despite its barren, lava-scorched landscape, the area recently gained such popularity with adventurers and activity purveyors that it had to be closed to commercial traffic and is temporarily closed to all foot traffic (until July 31, 2010). If you're visiting Maui after this date, be sure to visit. A ranger is stationed at the parking lot to assist visitors. It's difficult terrain and sometimes crowded, but if you make use of the rangers' suggestions (stay on marked paths, wear sturdy shoes to hike in and out), you can experience some of the reserve's outstanding treasures, such as the sheltered cove known as the "Fish Bowl." Be sure to bring water: this is a hot and unforgiving wilderness.

Word of Mouth

"Our family was in Maui last week and had amazing snorkeling with turtles in chest-deep water at Black Rock in front of the Sheraton. Our 12-year-old who wasn't confident to snorkel stood with goggles on, and was within reach of fish and turtles!" -wallos

Tips on Safe Snorkeling

Snorkel with a buddy and stay together.

Choose a location where lifeguards are present.

Ask the lifeguard about conditions, especially currents, before getting in the water.

Plan your entry and exit points prior to getting in the water.

Swim into the current on entering and then ride the current back to your exit point.

Pop your head above the water periodically to ensure you aren't drifting too far out, or too close to rocks.

Think of the ocean as someone else's home—don't take anything that doesn't belong to you, or leave any trash behind.

Don't touch any ocean creatures; they may reveal hidden stingers.

Avoid bumping against coral. Touching it can kill the delicate creatures that reside within the hard shell.

Wear a rash guard; it will keep you from being fried by the sun.

When in doubt, don't go without a snorkeling professional; try a guided tour.

Equipment

Most hotels and vacation rentals offer free use of snorkel gear. Beachside stands fronting the major resort areas rent equipment by the hour or day. Don't shy away from asking for instructions; a snug fit makes all the difference in the world. A mask fits if it sticks to your face when you inhale deeply through your nose. Fins should cover your entire foot (unlike diving fins, which strap around your heel). If you're squeamish about using someone else's gear (or need a prescription lens), pick up your own at any discount shop. Costco and Long's Drugs have better prices than ABC stores; dive shops have superior equipment.

Maui Dive Shop. You can rent pro gear (including optical masks, boogie boards, and wet suits) from six locations island-wide. Pump these guys for weather info before heading out—they'll know better than last night's news forecaster, and they'll give you the real deal on conditions. 1455 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 96732. 808/873-3388. www.mauidiveshop.com.

Snorkel Bob's. If you need gear, Snorkel Bob's will rent you a mask, fins, and a snorkel, and throw in a carrying bag, map, and snorkel tips for as little as $9 per week. Avoid the circle masks and go for the split-level ($26 per week); it's worth the extra cash. Napili Village Hotel, 5425 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Napili, 96761. 808/669-9603. www.snorkelbob.com.

Tours

The same boats that offer whale-watching, sailing, and diving also offer snorkeling excursions. Trips usually include visits to two locales, lunch, gear, instruction, and possible whale or dolphin sightings. Some captains troll for fish along the way, and, if they're lucky, will occasionally catch big game fish such as a marlin or mahimahi.

Molokini Crater, a crescent about 3 mi offshore from Wailea, is the most popular snorkel cruise destination. You can spend half a day floating above the fish-filled crater for about $80. Some say it's not as good as it's made out to be, and that it's too crowded, but others consider it to be one of the best spots in Hawaii. Visibility is generally outstanding and fish are incredibly tame. Your second stop will be somewhere along the leeward coast, either "Turtle Town" near Makena or "Coral Gardens" toward Lahaina. Be aware that on blustery mornings, there's a good chance the waters will be too rough to moor in Molokini and you'll end up snorkeling some place off the shore, which you could have driven to for free. For the safety of everyone on the boat, it's the captain's prerogative to choose the best spot for the day.

If you've tried snorkeling and are tentatively thinking about scuba, you may want to try snuba, a cross between the two. With snuba, you dive down 20 feet below the surface, only you're attached to an air hose from the boat. Many of the boats now offer snuba as well as snorkeling; expect to pay between $45 and $65 in addition to the regular cost of a snorkel cruise.

Snorkel cruises vary slightly—some serve mai tais and steaks whereas others offer beer and cold cuts. You might prefer a large ferryboat to a smaller sailboat, or vice versa. Whatever trip you choose, be sure you know where to go to board your vessel; getting lost in the harbor at 6 AM is a lousy start to a good day. Bring sunscreen, an underwater camera (they're double the price on board), a towel, and a cover-up for the windy return trip. Even tropical waters get chilly after hours of swimming, so consider wearing a rash guard. Wet suits can usually be rented for a fee. Hats without straps will blow away, and valuables should be left at home.

Ann Fielding's Snorkel Maui. For a personal introduction to Maui's undersea universe, this guided tour is the indisputable authority. A marine biologist, Fielding—formerly with the University of Hawaii, Waikiki Aquarium, and the Bishop Museum, and the author of several guides to island sea life—is the Carl Sagan of Hawaii's reef cosmos. She'll not only show you fish, but she'll also introduce you to individual fish. This is a good first experience for dry-behind-the-ears types. Snorkel trips cost $95 per adult, and include a snack and equipment. These tours take place along the shoreline, and groups travel to snorkel sites by car, not boat. 808/572-8437. www.maui.net/~annf.

Maui Classic Charters. This company offers two top-rate snorkel trips at a good value. Hop aboard the Four Winds II, a 55-foot, glass-bottom catamaran, for one of the most dependable snorkel trips around. You'll spend more time than the other charter boats do at Molokini and enjoy turtle-watching on the way home. The trip includes optional snuba ($49 extra), Continental breakfast, and a deluxe barbecue lunch, beer, wine, and soda. For a faster ride, try the Maui Magic, Maalaea's fastest power cat. This boat takes fewer people (45 max) than some of the larger vessels, offers snuba, and plays Hawaiian music on the ride. This one's good for kids. Trips range from $98 to $109; book online at least seven days in advance for a $10 discount. Maalaea Harbor, Slips 55 and 80, 96793. 808/879-8188 or 800/736-5740. www.mauicharters.com.

Maui-Molokai Sea Cruises. If you're a landlubber who'd still like to see the sea, book a passage on the 92-foot Prince Kuhio, one of the largest air-conditioned cruise vessels in Maui waters. They offer snuba, snorkeling, and complimentary transportation to the harbor, which relieves you from having to park and search for the boat's slip at 7 AM. The cost is $94 per adult, and includes Continental breakfast, deli buffet lunch, and open bar. It's $51 extra for snuba. Maalaea Harbor, 96793. 808/242-8777 or 800/468-1287. www.mvprince.com.

Paragon. With this company, you get to snorkel and sail—they have some of the fastest vessels in the state. As long as conditions are good, you'll hit prime snorkel spots in Molokini, Lanai, and occasionally, Coral Gardens. The Molokini trip offers a simple breakfast of fruits and bagels, deli lunch by the crater, juice, soda and beer. The Lanai trip includes a Continental breakfast, a picnic lunch on the beach, snacks, open bar, a snorkel lesson, and plenty of time in the water. The friendly crew takes good care of you, making sure you get the most value and enjoyment from your trip. Maalaea Harbor Slip 72, or Lahaina Harbor, 96793. 808/244-2087. www.sailmaui.com.

Teralani Sailing Charters. Snorkel choices vary between a regular trip that serves a deli lunch or a premier snorkel that's one hour longer with two snorkel sites and a barbecue-style lunch. Freshwater showers are available, and so is an open bar after the second snorkel stop. A friendly crew provides all your gear, flotation device, and a snorkeling crash course if necessary. Although there is no official naturalist aboard this comfortable vessel, crew members don't shy from imparting helpful tidbits about the snorkel sites and its marine life. Boarding is right off Dig Me Beach in front of Leilani's at Whalers Village. Parking is convenient and validated. 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali, 96761. 808/661-1230. www.teralani.net.

Trilogy Excursions. The longest-running operation on Maui is the Coon family's Trilogy Excursions. In terms of comprehensive offerings, this company's got it: six beautiful multihulled sailing vessels (though they usually only sail for a brief portion of the trip) at three departure sites. All excursions are manned by energetic crews who will keep you well fed and entertained with stories of the Islands and plenty of corny jokes. A full-day catamaran cruise to Lanai includes Continental breakfast and barbecue lunch on board, a guided van tour of the island, a "Snorkeling 101" class, and time to snorkel in the waters of Lanai's Hulopoe Marine Preserve (Trilogy has exclusive commercial access). There is a barbecue dinner on Lanai and an optional dolphin safari. The company also offers a Molokini and Honolua Bay snorkel cruise that is top-notch. Many people consider a Trilogy excursion the highlight of their trip. M?`alaea Harbor, Slip 99, Lahaina Harbor, or by K?`anapali Beach Hotel, 96793. 808/661-4743 or 888/225-6284. www.sailtrilogy.com.

How Big Is Big?

Before heading out for any water activity, be sure to get a weather and wave report, and make sure the surf report you get is the full face value of the wave. "Hawaiian style" cuts the wave size in half. For instance, a Hawaiian might say a wave is 5 feet high, which means 10 feet if you're from New Jersey or Florida. For years, scientists and surfers were using different measurements, as Hawaii locals measured waves from median sea level to the crest. These days, most surf reports are careful to distinguish between the two—but it can still get confusing.