Kayaking in Maui

Kayaking is a fantastic way to experience Maui's coast up close. Floating aboard a "plastic popsicle stick" is easier than you might think, and allows you to cruise out to vibrant, living coral reefs and waters where dolphins and even whales roam. Kayaking can be a leisurely paddle or a challenge of heroic proportions, depending on your ability, the location, and the weather. Though you can rent kayaks independently, we recommend taking a guide. An apparently calm surface can hide extremely strong ocean currents—and you really don't want to take an unplanned trip to Tahiti. Most guides are naturalists who will steer you away from surging surf, lead you to pristine reefs, and point out camouflaged fish, like the stalking hawkfish. Not having to schlep your gear on top of your rental car is a bonus. A half-day tour runs around $75. Custom tours can be arranged.

If you decide to strike out on your own, tour companies will rent kayaks for the day with paddles, life vests, and roof racks, and many will meet you near your chosen location. Ask for a map of good entries and plan to avoid paddling back to shore against the wind (schedule extra time for the return trip regardless). Read weather conditions, bring binoculars, and take a careful look from the bay before heading in. For beginners, get there early before the trade wind kicks in, and try sticking close to the shore. When you're ready to snorkel, secure your belongings in a dry pack on board and drag your boat by its bowline behind you. (This isn't as bad as it sounds.) The Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve, at the southernmost point of South Maui, is closed to all activities until July 31, 2010. You may not kayak, dive, or snorkel in the reserve before this date. Closure is to allow the coral reef system in the area to recover from overuse.

Best Spots

In West Maui, past the steep cliffs on the Honoapiilani Highway and before you hit Lahaina, there's a long stretch of inviting coastline, including Ukumehame (Between mile markers 12 and 14 on Rte. 30, 96761) and Olowalu beaches. This is a good spot for beginners; entry is easy and there's much to see in every direction. If you want to snorkel, the best visibility is farther out at Olowalu, at a depth of about 25 feet. Watch for sharp kiawe thorns buried in the sand on the way into the water.

Makena Landing (Off Makena Rd., 96753) is an excellent taking-off point for a South Shore adventure. Enter from the paved parking lot or the small sandy beach a little south. The bay itself is virtually empty, but the right edge is flanked with brilliant coral heads and juvenile turtles. If you round the point on the right, you come across Five Caves, a system of enticing underwater arches. In the morning you may see dolphins, and the arches are havens for lobsters, eels, and spectacularly hued butterfly fish. Check out the million-dollar mansions lining the shoreline and guess which celebrity lives where. Regulators, activity operators, and the public are immersed in a hot debate about shore access to this area due to concerns over conservation, safety, and economic issues. At press time, commercial kayaking was prohibited at Makena Landing; if you want to kayak here, you'll need to rent equipment and come on your own.

Equipment, Lessons, and Tours

Kelii's Kayak Tours. One of the highest-rated kayak outfitters on the island, Kelii's offers combo trips where one can paddle, surf, snorkel, or hike to a waterfall. They can take up to eight people per guide. Trips are available on the island's North, South, and West shores, and range from $54 to $149, plus 4.4% tax. Kihei, 96753. 888/874-8652 or 808/874-7652. www.keliiskayak.com.

South Pacific Kayaks. These guys pioneered recreational kayaking on Maui—they know their stuff. Guides are friendly, informative, and eager to help you get the most out of your experience; we're talking true, fun-loving, kayak geeks. Some activity companies show a strange lack of care for the marine environment; South Pacific stands out as adventurous and responsible. They offer a variety of trips leaving from both West Maui and South Shore locations, including an advanced four-hour "Molokini Challenge." Trips range from $54 to $99. 800/776-2326 or 808/875-4848. www.southpacifickayaks.com.