Snorkeling in Maui

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Snorkeling

No one should leave Maui without ducking underwater to meet a sea turtle, moray eel, or Humuhumunukunukuapuaa -- the state fish. Visibility is best in the morning, before the wind picks up.

There are two ways to approach snorkeling -- by land or by sea. Daily around 7 AM, a parade of boats heads out to Lanai or Molokini Crater, that ancient cone of volcanic cinder off the coast of Wailea. Boat trips offer some advantages -- deeper water, seasonal whale-watching, crew assistance, lunch, and gear. But you don't need a boat; much of Maui's best snorkeling is found just steps from the road. Nearly the entire leeward coastline from Kapalua south to _0hihi-Kinau offers prime opportunities to ogle fish and turtles. If you're patient and sharp-eyed, you may glimpse eels, octopi, lobsters, eagle rays, and even a rare shark or monk seal.

Best Spots

Snorkel sites here are listed from north to south, starting at the northwest corner of the island.

On the west side of the island, just north of Kapalua, Honolua Bay (Between mile markers 32 and 33 on Rte. 30, dirt road to left) Marine Life Conservation District has a superb reef for snorkeling. When conditions are calm, it's one of the island's best spots with tons of fish and colorful corals to observe. Make sure to bring a fish key with you, as you're sure to see many species of triggerfish, filefish, and wrasses. The coral formations on the right side of the bay are particularly dramatic and feature pink, aqua, and orange varieties. Take care entering the water; there's no beach and the rocks and concrete ramp can be slippery.

The northeast corner of this windward-facing bay periodically gets hammered by big waves in winter, and high-profile surf contests are held here. Avoid the bay then, and after a heavy rain (you'll know because Honolua stream will be running across the access path).

Just minutes south of Honolua, dependable Kapalua Bay (From Rte. 30, turn onto Kapalua Pl., and walk through tunnel) beckons. As beautiful above the water as it is below, Kapalua is exceptionally calm, even when other spots get testy. Needle and butterfly fish dart just past the sandy beach, which is why it's sometimes crowded. Sand can be particularly hot here; watch your toes! We think Black Rock (In front of Kaanapali Sheraton Maui, Kaanapali Pkwy.), at the northernmost tip of Kaanapali Beach, is tops for snorkelers of any skill level. The entry couldn't be easier -- dump your towel on the sand in front of the Sheraton Maui resort and in you go. Beginners can stick close to shore and still see lots of action. Advanced snorkelers can swim beyond the sand to the tip of Black Rock, or Kekaa Point, to see larger fish and eagle rays. One of the underwater residents, a turtle named "Volkswagen" for its hefty size, can be found here. He sits very still; you must look closely. Equipment can be rented on-site. Parking, in a small lot adjoining the hotel, is the only hassle.

Along Honoapiilani Highway (Route 30) there are several favorite snorkel sites including the area just out from the cemetery at Hanakaoo Beach Park (Near mile marker 23 on Rte. 30). At depths of 5 and 10 feet, you can see a variety of corals, especially as you head south toward Waihikuli Wayside Park. Farther down the highway, the shallow coral reef at Olowalu (South of Olowalu General Store on Rte. 30, at mile marker 14) is good for a quick underwater tour, though the best spot is a ways out, at depths of 25 feet or more. Closer to shore, the visibility can be hit or miss, but if you're willing to venture out about 50 yards, you'll have easy access to an expansive coral reef with abundant fish life -- no boat required. Swim offshore toward the pole sticking out of the reef. Except for during a south swell, this area is calm and good for families with small children; turtles are plentiful. Boats sometimes stop nearby (they refer to this site as "Coral Gardens") on their return trip from Molokini.

Excellent snorkeling is found down the coastline between Kihei and Makena. The best spots are along the rocky fringes of Wailea's beaches, Mokapu, Ulua,Wailea, and Polo, off Wailea Alanui Drive. Find one of the public parking lots sandwiched between Wailea's luxury resorts, and enjoy these beaches' sandy entries, calm waters with relatively good visibility, and variety of fish species. Of the four beaches, Ulua has the best reef. You can glimpse a box-shape puffer fish here, and listen to snapping shrimp and parrot fish nibbling on coral.

At the very southernmost tip of paved road in South Maui lies 0hihi-Kinau (Just before end of Makena Alanui Rd., follow marked trails through trees) Natural Area Reserve, also referred to as La Pérouse Bay. Despite its barren, lava-scorched landscape, the area recently gained such popularity with adventurers and activity purveyors that it had to be closed to commercial traffic. A ranger is stationed at the parking lot to assist visitors. It's difficult terrain and sometimes crowded, but if you make use of the rangers' suggestions (stay on marked paths, wear sturdy shoes to hike in and out), you can experience some of the reserve's outstanding treasures, such as the sheltered cove known as the "Fish Bowl." Be sure to bring water: this is a hot and unforgiving wilderness.

Snorkel Tours

The same boats that offer whale-watching, sailing, and diving also offer snorkeling excursions. Trips usually include visits to two locales, lunch, gear, instruction, and possible whale or dolphin sightings. Some captains troll for fish along the way, and, if they're lucky, will occasionally catch big game fish such as a marlin or mahimahi.

Molokini Crater, a moon-shape crescent about 3 mi off the shore of Wailea, is the most popular snorkel cruise destination. You can spend half a day floating above the fish-filled crater for about $80. Some say it's not as good as it's made out to be, and that it's too crowded, but others consider it to be one of the best spots in Hawaii. Visibility is generally outstanding and fish are incredibly tame. Your second stop will be somewhere along the leeward coast, either "Turtle Town" near Makena or "Coral Gardens" toward Lahaina. Be aware that on blustery mornings, there's a good chance the waters will be too rough to moor in Molokini and you'll end up snorkeling some place off the shore, which you could have driven to for free. For the safety of everyone on the boat, it's the captain's prerogative to choose the best spot for the day.

If you've tried snorkeling and are tentatively thinking about scuba, you may want to try snuba, a cross between the two. With snuba, you dive down 20 feet below the surface, only you're attached to an air hose from the boat. Many of the boats now offer snuba as well as snorkeling; expect to pay between $45 and $65 in addition to the regular cost of a snorkel cruise.

Snorkel cruises vary slightly -- some serve mai tais and steaks whereas others offer beer and cold cuts. You might prefer a large ferry boat to a smaller sailboat, or vice versa. Whatever trip you choose, be sure you know where to go to board your vessel; getting lost in the harbor at 6 AM is a lousy start to a good day. Bring sunscreen, an underwater camera (they're double the price on board), a towel, and a cover-up for the windy return trip. Even tropical waters get chilly after hours of swimming, so consider wearing a rash guard. Wetsuits can usually be rented for a fee. Hats without straps will blow away, and valuables should be left at home.

Ann Fielding's Snorkel Maui. For a personal introduction to Maui's undersea universe, this guided tour is the undisputable authority. A marine biologist, Fielding -- formerly with the University of Hawaii, Waikiki Aquarium, and the Bishop Museum, and the author of several guides to island sea life -- is the Carl Sagan of Hawaii's reef cosmos. She'll not only show you fish, but she'll also introduce you to individual fish. This is a good first experience for dry-behind-the-ears types. Snorkel trips include a snack and equipment. Groups travel to snorkel sites by car, not boat. 808/572-8437. www.maui.net/~annf.

Mahana Naia. This comfortable catamaran offers a value snorkel trip to Molokini ($85/adult, $60/child). Although marketed as a sailboat, it rarely hoists its sails. The crew works hard to make up for a lackluster boat, providing good service and food on the cruise. Coffee and continental breakfast greet you at the dock, and beer and wine are served with rotisserie chicken and salad for lunch. Maalaea Harbor Slip #47. 866/871-6284. www.maui-snorkeling-adventures.com.

Maui Classic Charters. This company offers two top-rate snorkel trips at a good value. Hop aboard the Four Winds II, a 55-foot, glass-bottom catamaran, for one of the most dependable snorkel trips around. You'll spend more time than the other charter boats do at Molokini and enjoy turtle-watching on the way home. The trip includes optional snuba ($49 extra), continental breakfast, and a deluxe barbecue lunch, beer, wine, and soda. For a faster ride, try the Maui Magic, Maalaea's fastest power cat. This boat takes fewer people (45 max) than some of the larger vessels, and as an added bonus, they offer snuba and play Hawaiian music on the ride. This one's good for kids. Book online at least 7 days in advance for a 15% discount. Maalaea Harbor Slips #55 and #80. 808/879-8188 or 800/736-5740. www.mauicharters.com.

Maui-Molokai Sea Cruises. If you're a landlubber who'd still like to see the sea, book a passage on the 92-foot Prince Kuhio, one of the largest air-conditioned cruise vessels in Maui waters. In addition to a deli-style lunch and open bar, they offer snuba, snorkeling, and complimentary transportation to the harbor, which relieves you from parking and searching for the boat's slip at 7 AM. Maalaea Harbor. 808/242-8777 or 800/468-1287. www.mvprince.com.

Pacific Whale Foundation. The knowledgeable folks here will treat you to a Molokini adventure like the others, only with a more ecological bent. Accordingly, they serve Gardenburgers alongside the requisite barbecue chicken, and their fleet runs on bona-fide biodiesel. This is an A-plus trip for kids: the crew assists with an onboard junior naturalist program and throws in a free wildlife guide and poster. The multi-hulled boats are smooth and some have swim on-off platforms. Best of all, a portion of the profits goes to protecting the very treasures you're paying to enjoy. At Maalaea Harbor, check-in at Pacific Whale Foundation shop in the Harbor Shops at Maalaea; at Lahaina Harbor, check-in at Pacific Whale Foundation shop at 612 Front St. 800/942-5311 or 808/249-8811. www.pacificwhale.org.

Paragon. With this company, you get to snorkel and sail -- they have some of the fastest vessels in the state. As long as conditions are good, you'll hit prime snorkel spots in Molokini, Lanai, and occasionally, Coral Gardens. The Lanai trip includes a continental breakfast, a picnic lunch on the beach, snacks, open bar, a snorkel lesson, and plenty of time in the water. The friendly crew takes good care of you, making sure you get the most value and enjoyment from your trip. Maalaea Harbor Slip #72, or Lahaina Harbor. 808/244-2087. www.sailmaui.com.

Trilogy Excursions. The longest-running operation on Maui is the Coon family's Trilogy Excursions. In terms of comprehensive offerings, this company's got it: they have six beautiful multi-hulled sailing vessels (though they usually only sail for a brief portion of the trip) at three departure sites. All excursions are manned by energetic crews who will keep you entertained with stories of the islands and plenty of corny jokes. A full-day catamaran cruise to Lanai includes continental breakfast and a deli lunch on board, a guided van tour of the island, a "Snorkeling 101" class, and time to snorkel in the waters of Lanai's Hulopoe Marine Preserve (Trilogy has exclusive commercial access). There is a barbecue dinner on Lanai and an optional dolphin safari. The company also offers a Molokini and Honolua Bay snorkel cruise. Many people consider a Trilogy excursion the highlight of their trip -- but if you're not a good "group activity" person, or if you are looking to really sail, there may be better options for you. Maalaea Harbor Slip #99, or Lahaina Harbor. 808/661-4743 or 888/225-6284. www.sailtrilogy.com.

Equipment Rental

Most hotels and vacation rentals offer free use of snorkel gear. Beachside stands fronting the major resort areas rent equipment by the hour or day. Don't shy away from asking for instructions; a snug fit makes all the difference in the world. A mask fits if it sticks to your face when you inhale deeply through your nose. Fins should cover your entire foot (unlike diving fins, which strap around your heel). If you're squeamish about using someone else's gear (or need a prescription lens), pick up your own at any discount shop. Costco and Long's Drugs have better prices than ABC stores; dive shops have superior equipment.

Maui Dive Shop. You can rent pro gear (including optical masks, boogie boards, and wet suits) from six locations island-wide. Pump these guys for weather info before heading out -- they'll know better than last night's news forecaster, and they'll give you the real deal on conditions. 1455 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. 808/873-3388. www.mauidiveshop.com.

Snorkel Bob's. If you need gear, Snorkel Bob's will rent you a mask, fins, and a snorkel, and throw in a carrying bag, map, and snorkel tips for as little as $9 per week. Avoid the circle masks and go for the split-level ($22 per week); it's worth the extra cash. Napili Village Hotel, 5425 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Napili. 808/669-9603. Dickenson Square, Dickenson St., Lahaina. 808/662-0104. 1279 S. Kihei Rd., #310, Kihei. 808/875-6188. Kamaole Beach Center, 2411 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. 808/879-7449. www.snorkelbob.com.