The fine dining room at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay shimmers with crystal chandeliers and gleaming silver in a serene setting illuminated by floor-to-ceiling etched-glass doors. Executive chef Oliver Beckert offers an upscale version of Italian comfort food designed around classic meat and fish dishes. Homemade spinach gnocchi with marinara sauce, and onaga (red snapper) served alla puttanesca with artichoke puree and a spicy tomato and caper sauce, are good choices. Slow-braised osso buco with risotto Milanese, or chicken marsala with creamy goat cheese polenta will satisfy the most discriminating palates. Service is nonintrusive but attentive.
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