Simple white walls hung with local art, lazily turning ceiling fans, and unobtrusive service provide the backdrop for a menu featuring fresh island ingredients prepared with bold flavors. Crab cakes, pulled-pork wontons, or steamed manila clams are a great way to start the evening. Baby field greens are artfully presented. The entrées are on the meaty side for Hawaii, and should satisfy serious appetites. The dining room is a friendly and comfortable alternative to the Four Seasons, and a convenient, if sometimes noisy, gathering place for large parties.