The best way to experience the aina—the land—on Kauai is to step off the beach and hike into the remote interior. You'll find waterfalls so tall you'll strain your neck looking, pools of crystal-cool water for swimming, tropical forests teeming with plant life, and ocean vistas that will make you wish you could stay forever.

For your safety wear sturdy shoes—preferably water-resistant ones. All hiking trails on Kauai are free, so far. There's a rumor that the Waimea Canyon and Kokee state parks will someday charge an admission fee. Whatever it may be, it will be worth it.

Hanalei-OkolehaoTrail. Okolehao basically translates to "moonshine" in Hawaiian. This trail follows the Hihimanu Ridge, which was established in the days of Prohibition when this backyard liquor was distilled from the roots of ti plants. The 2-mi hike climbs 1,200 feet and offers a 360-degree view of Hanalei Bay and Waioli Valley. Thanks to Kauai Sierra Club volunteers, this trail survived Hurricane Iniki. It took eight years of hauling chain saws and weed whackers up the ridge to clear the trail. Your ascent begins at the China Ditch off the Hanalei River. Follow the trail through a lightly forested grove, at the Y take the first right, and then take the next left up a steep embankment. From here the trail is well marked. Most of the climb is lined with hala, ti, wild orchid, and eucalyptus. You'll get your first of many ocean views at the 1 mile marker. Follow Ohiki Rd. (north of the Hanalei Bridge) 7 mi to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service parking area. Directly across the street is a small bridge that marks the trailhead.

Ho opii Falls. Tucked among the winding roads and grassy pastures of Kapahi, 3 mi inland from Kapaa town, is an easy hike to two waterfalls. A 10-minute walk will deliver you to the creek. Follow the creek around to see the first set of falls. The more impressive second falls are a mere 25 minutes away. The swimming hole alone is worth the journey. Just climb the rooted path next to the first falls and turn left on the trail above. Turn left on the very next trail to descend back into the canyon and follow the leafy path that zigzags along the creek. The falls and the swimming hole will lie below. Now is your chance to live that Indiana Jones fantasy of swinging from tree limb to tree limb. Okay, it's not quite that exciting, but you will be grateful for all the trees on the descent that will help you brace yourself on the steep decline, and once you step into that cool, clear water, you'll be glad you made the extra effort. On the north end of Kapaa, ¼ mi past the last lookout, is a small side road called Kawaihau. Follow the road up 3 mi, then turn right on Kapahi Rd. into a residential neighborhood. Kapahi Rd. dead-ends near the trailhead. Look for the yellow gate on your left.

Kalalau Trail. Of all the hikes on the island, Kalalau Trail is by far the most famous and in many regards the most strenuous. A moderate hiker can handle the 2-mi trek to Hanakapiai Beach, and for the seasoned outdoorsman, the additional 2 mi up to the falls is manageable. But be prepared to rock-hop along a creek and ford waters that can get waist high during the rain. Round-trip to Hanakapiai Falls is 8 mi. This steep and often muddy trail is best approached with a walking stick. The narrow trail will deliver one startling ocean view after another along a path that is alternately shady and sunny. Wear hiking shoes or sandals, and bring drinking water since the creeks on the trail are not potable. Snacks are always encouraged on a strenuous hike such as this one. If your plan is to venture the full 11 mi into Kalalau, you need to acquire a camping permit. Drive north past Hanalei to the end of the road. Trailhead is directly across from Kee Beach.

Shipwreck Shoreline Trail. This trail offers the novice hiker an accessible way to appreciate the rugged southern coast of Kauai. A cross-country course wends its way along the water, high above the ocean, through a lava field and past a sacred heiau (stone structure). Walk all the way to Mahaulepu, 2 mi north for a two-hour round-trip. Drive north on Poi Pu Rd., turn right at the Poi Pu Bay Golf Course sign. The street name is Ainako, but the sign is hard to see. Drive down to the beach and park in the lot.

Sleeping Giant Trail. An easy and easily accessible trail practically in the heart of Kapaa, the Sleeping Giant Trail—or simply "Sleeping Giant"—gains 1,000 feet over 2 mi. We prefer an early-morning—say, sunrise—hike, with sparkling blue-water vistas, up the east-side trailhead. At the top you can see a grassy grove with a picnic table; don't stop here. Continue carefully along the narrow trail toward the Giant's nose and chin. From here there are 360-degree views of the island. In Wailua, turn mauka off Rte. 56 onto Haleilio Rd.; proceed 1 mi to small parking area on right.

Waimea Canyon and Kokee State Parks. This park contains a 50-mi network of hiking trails of varying difficulty that take you through acres of native forests, across the highest-elevation swamp in the world, to the river at the base of the canyon, and onto pinnacles of land sticking their necks out over Napali Coast. All hikers should register at Kokee Natural History Museum, where you'll find trail maps, current trail information, and specific directions. All mileage mentioned below is one-way.

The Kukui Trail descends 2½ mi and 2,200 feet into Waimea Canyon to the edge of the Waimea River—it's a steep climb. The Awaawapuhi Trail, with 1,600 feet of elevation gains and losses over 3¼ mi, feels more gentle than the Kukui Trail, but it offers its own huffing-and-puffing sections in its descent along a spiny ridge to a perch overlooking the ocean.

The 3½-mi Alakai Swamp Trail is accessed via the Pihea Trail or a four-wheel-drive road. There's one strenuous valley section, but otherwise it's a pretty level trail—once you access it. This trail is a birder's delight and includes a painterly view of Wainiha and Hanalei valleys at the trail's end. The trail traverses the purported highest-elevation swamp in the world on a boardwalk so as not to disturb the fragile plant- and wildlife.

The Canyon Trail offers much in its short trek: spectacular vistas of the canyon and the only dependable waterfall in Waimea Canyon. The easy, 2-mi hike can be cut in half if you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle. If you were outfitted with a headlamp, this would be a great hike at sunset as the sun's light sets the canyon walls ablaze with color. Kokee Natural History Museum: Kokee Rd., Rte. 550. 808/335-9975 for trail conditions.

Leptospirosis

Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that is transmitted from animals to humans. It can survive for long periods of time in fresh water and mud contaminated by the urine of infected animals, such as mice, rats, and goats.

The bacteria enter the body through the eyes, ears, nose, mouth, and broken skin. To avoid infection, don't drink untreated water from the island's streams; don't wade in waters above the chest or submerge skin with cuts and abrasions in island streams or rivers.

Symptoms are often mild and resemble the flu—fever, diarrhea, chills, nausea, headache, vomiting, and body pains—and may occur 2 to 20 days after exposure. If you think you have these symptoms, see a doctor right away.

Liliko'i Alert

If you're hiking in May and June, you'll see lilikoi—often referred to as passion fruit—scattered like yellow eggs among the ferns. It tastes as sweet and floral as it smells—bite the tip of the rind off and you'll see speckled jelly with tiny black seeds, then slurp it right out of the skin. If you miss lilikoi season, scout out delicious lilikoi mustards and jams sold by local grocers. Lilikoi pie is also served at a few Hawaiian eateries.

Equipment & Tours

Kauai Nature Tours. Father and son scientists started this hiking tour business. As such, their emphasis is on education and the environment. If you're interested in flora, fauna, volcanology, geology, oceanography, and the like, this is the company for you. They offer daylong hikes along coastal areas, beaches, and in the mountains. Hikes range from easy to strenuous and rates range from $100 to $130. Meets at designated spots around the island. Provides transportation. 808/742-8305 or 888/233-8365. www.kauainaturetours.com.

Princeville Ranch Adventures. This 4-mi hike traverses Princeville Ranch, crossing through a rain forest and to a five-tier waterfall for lunch and swimming. Moderate hiking ability is required. Fee: $129. West of Princeville Airport on Rte. 56, between mile markers 27 and 28, Princeville. 808/826-7669 or 888/955-7669. www.adventureskauai.com.