Deep-Sea Fishing in Kauai

Simply step aboard and cast your line for mahimahi, ahi, ono, and marlin. That's about how quickly the fishing—mostly trolling with lures—begins on Kauai. The water gets deep quickly here, so there's less cruising time to fishing grounds. Of course, your captain may elect to cruise to a hot location where he's had good luck lately.

There are oodles of charter fishermen around; most depart from Nawiliwili Harbor in Lihue, and most use lures instead of live bait. Inquire about each boat's "fish policy," that is, what happens to the fish if any are caught. Some boats keep all; others will give you enough for a meal or two. On shared charters, ask about the maximum passenger count and about the fishing rotation; you'll want to make sure everyone gets a fair shot at reeling in the big one. Another option is to book a private charter. Shared and private charters run four, six, and eight hours in length.

Boats & Charters

Captain Don's Sport Fishing & Ocean Adventure. Captain Don is very flexible—he'll stop to snorkel or whale-watch if that's what the group (four to six) wants. Saltwater fly-fishermen (bring your own gear) are welcome. He'll even fish for bait and let you keep part of whatever you catch. The June Louise is a 34-foot twin diesel. Rates start at $135 for shared, $525 for private charters. Nawiliwili Harbor. 808/639-3012. www.captaindonsfishing.com.

Hana Paa. The advantage with Hana Paa is that they take fewer people (minimum two, maximum four), but you pay for it. Rates start at $325 for shared, $600 for private charters. Their fish policy is flexible and their boat is roomy. The Maka Hou II is a 38-foot Bertram. Nawiliwili Harbor. 808/823-6031 or 866/776-3474. www.fishkauai.com.

Kai Bear. The father of this father-and-son duo has it figured out: he lets the son run the business and do all the work. Or so he says. Fish policy: share the catch. Rates start at $149 for a four-hour, shared charter (six fishermen max) and run all the way to $2,000 for an eight-hour, keep-all-the-fish-you-want exclusive charter. What's particularly nice about this company are the boats: the 38-foot Bertram Kai Bear and the 42-foot Bertram Grander. Very roomy. Nawiliwili Harbor. 808/652-4556 or 866/226-8340. www.kaibear.com.

Napali Explorer. If you're staying on the West Side, you'll be glad to know that Napali Explorer of the longtime rafting-tour business is now running fishing trips out of Port Allen. They offer shared and exclusive charters of four, six, and eight hours in a 41-foot Concord called Happy Times. Their shared tours max out at six fishermen, and a portion of the catch is shared with all. They also use this boat for specialty charters—that is, film crews, surveys, burials, and even Niihau fishing. Rates start at $135 per person. Check in at Port Allen Small Boat Harbor. 808/338-9999 or 877/335-9909. www.napali-explorer.com.

The Forbidden Isle

Seventeen miles from Kauai, across the Kaulakahi Channel, lies the privately owned island of Niihau. It's known as the "Forbidden Isle" because access is limited to the Robinson family, which owns it, and the 200 or so Native Hawaiians who were born there.

Niihau was bought from King Kamehameha in 1864 by a Scottish widow, Eliza Sinclair. Sinclair was introduced to the island after an unusually wet winter; she saw nothing but green pastures and thought it would be an ideal place to raise cattle. The cost was $10,000. It was a real deal, or so Sinclair thought.

Unfortunately, Niihau's usual rainfall is about 12 inches a year, and the land soon returned to its normal desertlike state. Regardless, Sinclair did not abandon her venture and today the island and ranching operation are owned by Bruce Robinson, Eliza Sinclair's great-great-grandson.

Visits to the island are restricted to custom hunting expeditions and flightseeing tours through Niihau Helicopter. Tours depart from Kaumakani and avoid the western coastline, especially the village of Puuwai. There's a four-passenger minimum for each flight, and reservations are essential. A picnic lunch on a secluded Niihau beach is included, with time for swimming, beachcombing, and snorkeling. The half-day tour is $325 per person.

For more information contact Niihau Tours (Box 690370, Makaweli, 96769. 808/335-3500 or 877/441-3500. www.niihau.us).