Hoku's at the Kahala. Everything about this room speaks of quality and sophistication: the wall of windows with their beach views, the avant-garde cutlery and dinnerware, the solicitous staff, and the carefully constructed Euro-Pacific cuisine. The menu constantly changes, but you can count on Chef Wayne Hirabayashi to use fresh, local ingredients when possible in his innovative dishes such as braised short-rub tempura, salt-crusted rack of lamb with tomato confit,
and butter-poached lobster with passionfruit jus. It's an excellent and popular choice for special occasions or for Sunday brunch. The dress code is collared shirts, no beachwear. The Kahala Hotel & Resort, 5000 Kahala Ave., Kahala, Honolulu, HI, 96816. 808/739–8760. www.kahalaresort.com. Reservations essential. Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch.