Do as the locals do: start your visit to Chinatown with breakfast dim sum at this Hong Kong–style restaurant. If you want to be able to hear yourself think, get there before 9 am, especially on weekends. And don't be shy: use your best cab-hailing technique and sign language to make the cart ladies stop at your table and show you their wares. The pork-filled steamed buns, spinach dumplings, taro-and-pork gok (bite-size fried balls), and still-warm custard tarts
are excellent pre-shopping fortification. Dim sum dishes cost $2.75 to $5.75, so knock yourself out. The place also has à la carte lunch and dinner menus.