At this anti-mom-and-pop Japanese restaurant, choose from the teppan bar, the sushi bar, the main dining room, or the sexy zashiki room, curtained off by strands of lights. The place is a kaleidoscope of chocolate brown tiles, understated waterfalls, and dropped ceilings of Japanese fabric. You can try okonomiyaki, the famous savory pancakes that are a specialty of Osaka, with mix-and-match ingredients scrambled on a griddle, then drizzled with piquant sauces. Jewel-like appetizers such as dashi gelee topped with tender abalone and sea urchin come sparkling in martini glasses. And simpler grilled dishes include kurobuta pork topped with barley miso and Japanese pumpkin with asparagus and bacon.
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