Nico's at Pier 38. Lyon-born chef Nico Chaiz's harborside restaurant is steps from the Honolulu Fish Auction, which explains his "line to plate" concept—super-fresh fish at a reasonable price. The signature dish is an ahi steak crusted in furikake (a Japanese mix of toasted nori and sesame seeds) and pan-seared, but he lets his French flag fly with a steak frites and bouillabaisse, too. At lunch—when the place serves local-style plate lunches—you'll
rub shoulders with a mix of rough-hewn dock workers, fishermen, office drones, and cops. Come dinner a younger crowd arrives for beers on tap and cocktails. Try to get a table on the outside lanai. And if you're staying in a place with a kitchen, there's also a fish market selling fresh seafood, as well as prepared foods such as poke, soups, and stews; it's open 6:30 am to 6 pm Monday through Saturday, and 10 to 4 on Sunday. 1133 N. Nimitz Hwy., Pier 38, Iwilei, Honolulu, HI, 96817. 808/540–1377. nicospier38.com. Reservations not accepted.