Camping in Honolulu and Oahu

Camping has always been the choice of cost-conscious travelers who want to be vacationing for a while without spending a lot of money. But now, with the growth of ecotourism and the skyrocketing cost of gas, it has become more popular than ever. Whatever your reasons for getting back to nature, Oahu has plenty to offer year-round.

Camping here is not as highly organized as it is on the Mainland: expect few marked sites, scarce electrical outlets, and nary a ranger station. What you find instead are unblemished spots in the woods and on the beach. With price tags ranging from free to $5, it's hard to complain about the lack of amenities.

State Parks

There are four state recreation areas at which you can camp, one in the mountains and three on the beach. All state parks require 30 days' advance notice and a $5 fee a day.

To Whom It May Concern: obtain a camping permit as well as rules and regulations for state parks, write to the Department of Land and Natural Resources, State Parks Division (Box 621, Honolulu, 96809. 808/587-0300. www.state.hi.us/dlnr/dsp).

Keaiwa Heiau State Recreation Area (End of Aiea Heights Rd. 808/483-2511), the mountain option, consists of nearly 400 acres of forests and hiking trails in the foothills of the Koolaus. The park is centered around an ancient Hawaiian holy site, known as a heiau, that is believed to be the site of many healings. Proper respect is asked of campers in the area.

Of the beach sites, Kahana Valley State Park (Kamehameha Hwy. near Kahana Bay) is the choice for a true Hawaiian experience. You camp alongside a beautiful Windward bay, a short walk away from the Huilua Fishpond, a national historic landmark. There are rain-forest hikes chock-full of local fruit trees, a public hunting area for pigs, and a coconut grove for picnicking. The water is suitable for swimming and body surfing, though it's a little cloudy for snorkeling. Camping here gives you a true taste of old Hawaii, as they lived it.

County Campsites

As for the county spots, there are 15 currently available and they all do require a permit. The good news is that the permits are free and are easy to obtain.

Contact the Department of Parks and Recreation (650 S. King St., Honolulu, 96707. 808/768-3440), or any of the satellite city halls (Ala Moana Mall, Fort St. Mall, and Kapolei Hale), for permits and rules and regulations.

For beach camping we suggest Bellows and Kualoa. Bellows Field Beach Park (220 Tinker Rd. 808/259-8080) has the superior beach as well as excellent cover in the grove of ironwood trees. The Windward beach is over 3 mi long, and both pole fishing and campfires in designated areas are allowed here. You can feel secure with the kids as there are lifeguards and public phones. The only downside is that camping is only permitted on the weekends.

The beach at Kualoa Regional Park (49-479 Kamehameha Hwy. 808/237-8525) isn't the magnificent giant that Bellows is, but the vistas are both magnificent and historic. Near Chinaman's Hat (Mokolii Island) at the northern end of Kaneohe Bay, the park is listed on the National Registry of Historic Places due to its significance to the Hawaiians. The park is expansive, with large grassy areas, picnic tables, and comfort stations. Although the beach is just a bit of a sandy strip, the swimming and snorkeling are excellent.

Camping is not just all about the beach, however.

Nestled in the foothills of the Koolaus is the serene Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden (End of Luluku Rd. in Kaneohe. 808/233-7323). The 400-acre preserve has catch-and-release fishing, extensive hiking trails, and a large selection of tropical shrubs and trees. There are five fire circles. Though it is a beautiful area, they do caution campers to be prepared for rain, mud, and mosquitoes.

Camping Indoors

If tent camping sounds a little too rugged, consider cabin camping on the beach. These spots do not offer the amenities of the island's hotels and resorts, but they do provide oceanfront rooms for those on smaller budgets.

The least expensive is The Friends of Malaekahana (56-335 Kamehameha Hwy. 808/293-1736. www.malaekahana.net.) just outside the North Shore's Laie. The complex is a series of oceanfront cottages built 60 years ago, taken over by the state, and now run by The Friends as a private venture in what they call "indoor camping." Over a half-century of North Shore winters has dilapidated the cabins to mere shells of their former quaintness. But, at $80 a night for a cabin that sleeps 10, it is easy to see why it's almost impossible to get one during the summer. In the wintertime you can usually secure one for weekday rentals. Remember to bring everything that you would bring for camping, because they mean it when they say "indoor camping." Sunrise from your lanai (albeit a lanai that leans at an angle) is not to be had anywhere else for this price.

For a little step up there is the YMCA's Camp Erdman (69-385 Farrington Hwy. 808/637-4615. www.camperdman.net), also on the North Shore. It is a youth camp, but they almost always have extra cabins available for the public. The cabins are in much better condition than Malaekahana, and they offer nicer facilities, including volleyball and basketball, and serve hot meals. The beach is nearly deserted, and there is an amazing ropes course for those without a fear of heights. Though $105 a person for two nights seems a bit steep for camping, keep in mind that the fee also covers six meals. Just try to eat in Waikiki for two days on that budget!

Finally, if you have a big group to house, there is Camp Mokuleia (68-729 Farrington Hwy. 808/637-6241. www.campmokuleia.org). This privately-run operation has wide-open beach space, a monstrous fire pit, and camp sites that can accommodate 30. While the camp sites are a bargain at $10 a night, the cabins are a bit pricey unless you have a troop. Their studio cottages are $85 a night, but the 14-bed cottages are only $170. Located just up the road from Camp Erdman, they offer fewer kids and more privacy, but you are on your own as far as cooking is concerned.