Scuba Diving in Honolulu and Oahu

All the great stuff to do atop the water sometimes leads us to forget the real beauty beneath the surface. Although snorkeling and snuba (more on that later) do give you access to this world, nothing gives you the freedom of scuba.

The diving on Oahu is comparable with any you might do in the tropics, but its uniqueness comes from the isolated environment of the Islands. There are literally hundreds of species of fish and marine life that you can only find in this chain. Adding to the singularity of diving off Oahu is the human history of the region. Military activities and tragedies of the 20th century filled the waters surrounding Oahu with wreckage that the ocean creatures have since turned into their homes.

Although instructors certified to license you in scuba are plentiful in the Islands, we suggest that you get your PADI certification before coming as a week of classes may be a bit of a commitment on a short vacation. You can go on introductory dives without the certification, but the best dives require it.

Best Spots

Hanauma Bay (7455 Kalanianaole Hwy.) is an underwater state park and a popular dive site in Southeast Oahu. The shallow inner reef of this volcanic crater bay is filled with snorkelers, but its floor gradually drops from 10 to 70 feet at the outer reef where the big fish prefer the lighter traffic. It's quite a trek down into the crater and out to the water so you may want to consider a dive-tour company to do your heavy lifting. Expect to see butterfly fish, goatfish, parrot fish, surgeonfish, and sea turtles.

Just off Diamond Head, a collection of volcanic boulders creates a series of caves known as Hundred Foot Hole. Once a fishing ground reserved for royalty, it now serves as a great spot for everyone to get Hawaiian lobsters. A dive light is a good idea here because much of the area is shaded, and you don't want to miss such sea life as octopus, manta rays, and white-tip sharks. It is shore accessible.

The Mahi Waianae , a 165-foot minesweeper, was sunk in 1982 in the waters just south of Waianae on Oahu's leeward coast to create an artificial reef. It's intact and penetrable, but you'll need a boat to access it. In the front resides an ancient moray eel who is so mellowed that you can pet his barnacled head without fearing for your hand's safety. Goatfish, tame lemon-butterfly fish, and blue-striped snapper hang out here, but the real stars are the patrols of spotted eagle rays that are always cruising by. It can be a longer dive as it's only 90 feet to the hull.

East of Diamond Head, Maunalua Bay has several boat-access sites, including Turtle Canyon, with lava-flow ridges and sandy canyons teeming with green sea turtles of all sizes; Kahala Barge, a penetrable, 200-foot sunken vessel; Big Eel Reef, with many varieties of moray eels; and Fantasy Reef, a series of lava ledges and archways populated with barracuda and eels. There's also the sunken Corsair. It doesn't boast much sea life, but there's something special about sitting in the cockpit of a plane 100 feet below the surface of the ocean.

The best shore dive on Oahu is Shark's Cove (Across from Foodland in Pupukea) on the North Shore, but unfortunately it's only accessible during the summer months. Novices can drift along the outer wall, watching everything from turtles to eels. Veterans can explore the numerous lava tubes and tunnels where diffused sunlight from above creates a dreamlike effect in spacious caverns. It's 10- to 45-feet deep, ready-made for shore diving with a parking lot right next to the dive spot. Three Tables is just west of Shark's Cove, enabling you to have a second dive without moving your car. Follow the three perpendicular rocks that break the surface out to this dive site, where you can find a variety of parrot fish and octopus, plus occasional shark and ray sightings at depths of 30 to 50 feet. It's not as exciting as Shark's Cove, but it is more accessible for the novice diver.

Increase your caution the later in the year you come to these sights; the waves pick up strength in fall, and the reef can be turned into a washboard for you and your gear. Both are null and void during the winter surf sessions.

Equipment, Lessons & Tours

Captain Bruce's Hawaii. Captain Bruce's focuses on the west and east shores, covering the Mahi and the Corsair. This full-service company has refresher and introductory dives as well as more advanced drift and night dives. No equipment is needed; they provide it all. Most importantly, this is the only boat on Oahu that offers hot showers onboard. Two-tank boat-dive rates begin at $110 per person. 808/373-3590 or 800/535-2487. www.captainbruce.com.

Hanauma Bay Dive Tours. You can guess the specialty here. They offer introductory dives in the federally protected reserve for those aged 12 and above, with snuba available to those 8 years old and up. The charge is $91 for the day plus a $5 fee for park entry. 808/256-8956.

Reeftrekkers. The owners of the slickest dive Web site in Hawaii are also the Scuba Diving Reader's Choice winners for the past four years. Using the dive descriptions and price quotes on their Web site, you can plan your excursions before ever setting foot on the island. Two-tank boat-dive rates begin at $95 per person. 808/943-0588. www.reeftrekkers.com.

Surf-N-Sea. The North Shore headquarters for all things water-related is great for diving that side as well. There is one interesting perk—the cameraman can shoot a video of you diving. It's hard to see facial expressions under the water, but it still might be fun for those who need documentation of all they do. Two-tank boat-dive rates begin at $110 per person. 808/637-3337. www.surfnsea.com.