Just up the hill from Kohala, past Saddle Road (the route to Mauna Kea), Waimea offers a completely different experience from the rest of the island. Rolling green hills, large open pastures, cool evening breezes and morning mists, cattle everywhere, and regular rodeos are just a few of the surprises you'll stumble upon here in paniolo (Hawaiian for "cowboy") country. In addition to the horses and cattle, this is also where some of the island's top resort chefs are sent out to pasture, which makes Waimea an ideal place to find yourself stranded at dinnertime. In keeping with the recent Big Island restaurant trend toward locally farmed ingredients, a handful of Waimea farms and ranches supply most of the restaurants on the island, and many sell to the public as well. With its galleries, restaurants, and museum, as well as the Parker Ranch, Waimea is well worth a stop if you're heading to Hilo or Mauna Kea. And the short highway that connects Waimea to North Kohala (Hwy. 170) affords some of our favorite Big Island views.
You can see most of what Waimea has to offer in one day, but if you're heading up to Mauna Kea for stargazing (which you should), it could easily be stretched to two. If you stay in Waimea overnight (there are a few B&B options), or just get up really early, you could go for a morning horseback ride around the Parker Ranch, spend the afternoon browsing through town or touring some of the area's fantastic farms and ranches, then indulge in a gourmet dinner—all before heading up Saddle Road for world-renowned stargazing atop Mauna Kea. One word to the wise—there are no services or gas stations on Saddle Road, the only way to reach Mauna Kea. Fill up on gas and bring water and/or snacks with you (there are plenty of gas stations, cafés, and shops in Waimea).