South Kona

South of Kailua-Kona, Highway 11 hugs splendid coastlines, leaving busy streets behind. A detour along the winding narrow roads in the mountains above takes you straight to the heart of coffee country where lush plantations and jaw-dropping views offer a taste of what Hawaii was like before the resorts took over. Tour one of the coffee farms to find out what the big deal is about Kona coffee, and snag a free sample while you're at it. A half-hour back on the highway will lead you to magical Kealakekua Bay, where Captain James Cook arrived in 1778, changing the Islands forever. Hawaiian spinner dolphins frolic in the bay, now a marine preserve nestled alongside high green cliffs more reminiscent of popular images of Ireland than posters of Hawaii. Snorkeling is superb here, as it is a protected marine reserve, so you may want to bring your gear and spend an hour or so exploring the coral reefs. This is also a nice kayaking spot; the bay is extremely calm. The 2006 earthquakes shook rocks and dirt from the cliffs surrounding the bay and sunk them straight into the water, causing the bay to close for a few months. It's open again, but orange buoys mark the area that officials still deem potentially dangerous, closest to the cliffs. One of our favorite ways to spend a morning is to throw some snorkel gear in a kayak, paddle across the bay, go for a swim and a snorkel, and paddle back, dodging dolphins along the way.

The winding road above Kealakekua Bay is home to a quaint little painted church, as well as several reasonably priced bed-and-breakfasts with great views. The communities surrounding the bay (Kainaliu and Captain Cook) are brimming with local and transplanted artists, making them great places to stop for a meal, some unique gifts, or an afternoon stroll.

Logistics

Between the coffee plantations, artsy towns, and Kealakekua Bay, South Kona has plenty of activities to keep you occupied for a day. Bring a swimsuit and snorkel gear, and hit Kealakekua Bay first thing in the morning. You'll have a better chance of a dolphin sighting, and you'll beat the large snorkel cruise groups. Follow the signs off Highway 11 to the bay, then park at Napoopoo Beach (not much of a beach, but it provides easy access into the water). You can rent kayaks at any of a number of stands along the highway, but there are no rental options once you start the 10-minute trek down to the bay. After a morning of swimming and kayaking, grab your morning coffee for free on a coffee farm tour, then head to one of the great cafés in nearby Kainaliu to refuel (we like the Aloha Angel Cafe in the Aloha Theater for breakfast, and Cafe Nasturtium for lunch).