There's no ambience to speak of, and water is served in unbreakable plastic, but if you're searching for local fare—that eclectic and indefinable fusion of ethnic cuisines—Kuhio Grille is a must. Sam Araki serves a 1-pound laulau (a steamed bundle of taro leaves and pork) that is worth the trip. This diner at the edge of Hilo's largest mall opens at 6 AM.
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