It's nothing short of miraculous. Kilauea Volcano is adding new land to the Big Island. Not hundreds of thousands of years ago -- today. Molten lava meets the ocean, cools, and solidifies into a brand-new stretch of coastline. It's fire and water, creation at its most elemental. What makes it even more amazing? You can watch it happen right in front of you. If you do nothing else on the Big Island, do the volcano.

Kilauea, youngest and most rambunctious of the Hawaiian volcanoes, erupted at its summit from the 19th century through the 1950s. Since then, the top of the volcano has been more or less quiet, frequently shrouded in mists. Its eastern side, on the other hand, has been percolating, sending lava spilling into the ocean. The current eruption has been ongoing since January 3, 1983, primarily from Pu'u 'O'o Vent. The lava flows are generally steady and slow, appearing and disappearing from view. And the volcano doesn't only create, it destroys. In 1990, a lava flow engulfed and demolished the coastal town of Kalapana.

Exploring the surface of the world's most active volcano -- from the moonscape craters at the summit to the red lava flows on the coast -- is the ultimate eco-tour.

The Kilauea Summit is a massive grey pit (2 mi long and 2 mi wide) encircled by plumes of sulfuric smoke. The size of this main caldera, not to mention its un-canny resemblance to those old Apollo moon photos, makes for an eerie, awe-inspiring spot. Within and around the caldera are several smaller craters.

Before you head for the summit, stop by the Kilauea Visitor Center (808/985-6010. Daily 7:45-5), where you can check the status of the current lava flows. Don't get caught on the summit when the lava is bubbling on the coast. The summit is amazing, but as it's currently dormant, it will be there when you're ready for it. Plus rangers know the inside scoop on summit trails. While you're there check out the Volcano House. This remarkable old lodge peers impudently down into Kilauea from its perch on the caldera's rim. The 1941 building itself is sadly showing wear and tear, but there's usually a blaze in the stone fireplace. Skip the food, but don't miss the views.

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