This is a popular local hangout, and not just because the kava makes you mellow. (Used for relaxation, organic kava root is harvested on the Hamakua Coast and transformed into a traditional, slightly bitter brew.) The Hawaiian proprietors also serve traditional Hawaiian food, including fresh poke; bowls of smoky, pulled kalua pork; and healthy organic greens, available in fairly large portions for less than you'll pay elsewhere. In addition, the restaurant offers fresh-fish plates, opihi (limpets), vegetarian options, and even traditional Hawaiian laulau (pork wrapped in taro leaves and steamed). Seating is at a premium, but don't be afraid to share a table and make friends.