Mauna Kea

You can go snowboarding in Hawaii. Seriously. You do have to be in pretty good shape and a close-to-expert boarder to get up the mountain and down again with no lifts, but lack of snow is definitely not a problem. Mauna Kea is the antithesis of the typical island experience. Freezing temperatures and arctic conditions are common at the summit, and snowstorms can occur year-round. From its base below the ocean's surface to its summit, Mauna Kea is the tallest island mountain on the planet. It's also home to Lake Waiau, one of the highest lakes in the world.

In addition to being a unique spot in all the ways mentioned above, Mauna Kea's summit—at 13,796 feet—is reputedly the clearest place in the world for viewing the night sky. For this reason, the summit is home to the world's largest astronomical observatory. Research teams from eleven different countries operate 13 telescopes on Mauna Kea, several of which are record-holders: the world's largest optical/infrared telescopes (the Keck telescopes), the world's largest dedicated infrared telescope (UKIRT), and the largest submillimeter telescope (the JCMT).

Mauna Kea is tall, but there are taller mountains in the world, so what makes this spot so great for astronomy? It has more to do with atmosphere than with height. A tropical inversion cloud layer below the summit keeps moisture from the ocean and other atmospheric pollutants down at lower elevations. As a result, the air around the Mauna Kea summit is extremely dry, which helps in the measurement of infrared and submillimeter radiation from stars, planets, and the like. There are also no clouds; the annual number of clear nights here blows every other place out of the water. And, because the mountain is far away from any interfering lights (not a total coincidence—in addition to the fact that the nearest town is nearly 30 mi away, there is an official ordinance limiting light on the island) skies are dark for the astronomers' research. To quote the staff at the observatory, astronomers here are able to "observe the faintest galaxies that lie at the very edge of the observable Universe."

Teams from various universities have used the telescopes on Mauna Kea to make major astronomical discoveries, including new satellites around Jupiter and Saturn, new "Trojans" (asteroids that orbit, similar to moons) around Neptune, new moons and rings around Uranus, and new moons around Pluto. Their studies of galaxies are changing the way scientists think about time and evolution.

What does all this mean for you? In addition to the best sunrises and sunsets—we're gonna go ahead and say it—in the world, a visit to Mauna Kea is a chance to see more stars than you've likely ever seen before and an opportunity to learn more about mind-boggling scientific discoveries in the very spot where these discoveries are being made. A trip to Mauna Kea may just be the highlight of your trip.

If you have a budding interest in astronomy, be sure to visit the Imiola Astronomy Center in Hilo. The Center has presentations and planetarium films about the mountain and the science being conducted there.

Logistics

Mauna Kea is only 34 mi from Hilo and 18 from Waimea, but the drive takes an hour to an hour and a half from Hilo and half an hour to an hour from Waimea thanks to some rough driving. Between the ride there, sunset on the summit, and stargazing, we recommend allotting at least four hours for your Mauna Kea visit.

There are a few potential obstacles to enjoying Mauna Kea, but nothing you can't avoid with a little planning. The first hurdle is getting there. To reach the summit, you must drive on Saddle Road. Saddle Road, which is a shortcut across the island, is a steep and winding road with no services, and parts of it are unpaved and rough. The road to the Visitor Center at Mauna Kea is fine, but the road from there to the summit is a bit more precarious, unpaved, and very steep. Thanks to recent improvements on Saddle Road, visitors no longer have to worry about rental cars making it up the mountain. Although the road from the Visitor Center to the summit is still unpaved, most cars can make it up slowly, and 4-wheel-drive vehicles won't have any trouble at all. If you're worried about your rental making the drive, you can still head for the summit with one of a handful of tour operators who will take care of everything. If you plan to drive yourself, fill up on gas and bring water and snacks with you, as there is nowhere along the way to stock up.

The second thing, which is extremely important to remember, is the altitude. Whether you're hiking or driving to the summit, take the change in altitude seriously—stop at the Visitor Center for at least half an hour, and don't overexert yourself, especially at the top. Scuba divers must wait at least 24 hours before attempting a trip to the summit to avoid getting the bends. The observatory recommends that children under 16, pregnant women, and those with heart, respiratory, or weight problems not go higher than the Visitor Center.

The last potential obstacle: it's cold. The military personnel stationed in Hawaii do their cold-weather training atop Mauna Kea. It is cold, and the snow never completely melts. It's difficult to find cold weather clothing in Hawaii, so, if you plan to visit Mauna Kea, pack your favorite warm things from home.