If you had only a weekend to spend on the Big Island, this is probably where you'd want to go. Kohala is a mix of the island's best beaches and swankiest hotels just minutes from ancient valleys and temples, waterfalls, and funky artist enclaves.
North of Kona International Airport, along Highway 19, brightly colored bougainvillea stand out in relief against miles of black lava fields stretching from the mountain to the sea. Most of the lava flows are from the last eruptions of Mt. Hualalai, in 1800 and 1801. The black lava fields created by those flows are interrupted only by green oases of irrigated golf courses surrounding the glamorous luxury resorts of the Kona-Kohala Coast. The resorts lay claim to some of the island's finest restaurants and its only destination spas. But the real attractions here are the island's best beaches. On a clear day you can see Maui from the Kohala Coast, and during the winter months, glistening humpback whales cleave the waters just offshore.
Rounding the northern tip of the island, the arid coast suddenly gives way to the lush green valley of Pololu in North Kohala, and hot sunny days at the beach become cool misty evenings in the Kohala mountains. In the sugar-plantations-turned-artsy enclaves of Hawi and Kapaau, new galleries are interspersed with charming reminders of old Hawaii—wooden boardwalks, quaint local stores, delicious neighborhood restaurants, friendly locals, and a delightfully slow pace. With beaches, waterfalls, resorts, and villages within a few short miles of each other, Kohala is one-stop shopping for all things Hawaiian.
Two days is sufficient time for experiencing each unique side of Kohala—one day for the resort perks: the beach, the spa, the golf, the restaurants; one day for hiking and admiring the waterfalls and valleys of North Kohala, coupled with a wander around Hawi and Kapaau. Diving and snorkeling are great along this coast, so bring or rent equipment. If you're staying at one of the resorts, they will usually have any equipment you could possibly want. If you're feeling adventurous, get your hands on a four-wheel-drive vehicle and head to one of the unmarked beaches along the Kohala Coast—you may end up with a beach to yourself. The best way to explore the valleys of north Kohala is with a hiking tour. Look for a tour that includes lunch and a dip in one of the area's waterfall pools. Lunch options in the north are limited, but Hawi has a couple of great dinner spots.