Hilo

When compared to Kailua-Kona, Hilo is often described as "the real Hawaii." With fewer tourists than residents, more historic buildings, and more Hawaiian cultural events, life does seem more Hawaiian on this side of the island. This quaint, traditional fishing village stretches from the banks of the Wailuku River to Hilo Bay, where a few hotels line stately Banyan Drive. The wonderful old buildings that make up Hilo's downtown have recently been spruced up as part of a revitalization effort. Nearby, the 30-acre Liliuokalani Gardens, a formal Japanese garden with arched bridges and waterways, was created in the early 1900s to honor the area's Japanese sugar-plantation laborers. It also became a safety zone after a devastating tidal wave swept away businesses and homes on May 22, 1960, killing 60 people.

With a population of almost 50,000 in the entire district, Hilo is the fourth-largest city in the state and home to the University of Hawaii at Hilo. Although it is the center of government and commerce for the island, Hilo is primarily a residential town. Mansions with yards of lush tropical foliage surround older wooden houses with rusty corrugated roofs. It's a friendly community, populated primarily by descendants of the contract laborers—Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Puerto Rican, and Portuguese—brought in to work the sugarcane fields during the 1800s.

One of the main reasons visitors have tended to steer clear of the east side of the island is its weather. With an average rainfall of 130 inches per year, it's easy to see why Hilo's yards are so green, and its buildings so weather worn. Hilo is rain forests and waterfalls, very unlike the hot and dry white-sand beaches of the Kohala Coast. But when the sun does shine, the snow glistens on Mauna Kea, 25 mi in the distance, and the town sparkles. Most days the rain blows away by noon, leaving behind the colorful arches that earn Hilo its nickname: the City of Rainbows.

Logistics

Hilo is a great base for exploring the eastern and southern parts of the island—just be sure to bring an umbrella for sporadic showers. If you're just passing through town or making a day trip, make the first right turn into the town off Highway 19 (it comes up fast) and grab a parking spot in the lot on your left or on any of the surrounding streets. Downtown Hilo is best experienced on foot. The Downtown Hilo Improvement Association (329 Kamehameha Ave. 808/935-8850. www.downtownhilo.com. Mon.-Fri. 8:30-4:30) provides an excellent and free self-guided walking tour to downtown Hilo. The tour includes historical information, a map, and directions to 18 historic sites. You can download it from their Web site or pick it up in person at their downtown Hilo office.

There are plenty of gas stations and restaurants in the area. Hilo is a good spot to load up on food and supplies—just south of downtown there are several large budget chains. The Merrie Monarch Hula Festival takes place in Hilo every year during the second week of April, and dancers and admirers flock to the city from all over the world. If you're planning a stay in Hilo during this time, be sure to book your room well in advance.