The Big Island's underwater world is the setting for a dramatic diving experience. With generally calm waters, vibrant coral reefs and rock formations, and plunging underwater drop-offs, the Kona and Kohala coasts provide some great scuba diving. There are also some good dive locations in east Hawaii, not far from the Hilo area. Divers will find much to occupy their time, including marine reserves teeming with unique Hawaiian reef fish, Hawaiian green sea turtles, an occasional and rare Hawaiian monk seal, and even some feisty Hawaiian spinner dolphins. On special night dives to see manta ray, divers descend with bright underwater lights that attract plankton, which in turn attracts these otherworldly creatures. The best spots to dive are listed in order from north to south; all are on the west coast.

Best Spots

Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area (Hwy. 19, near mile marker 69) in Kohala can be a good shore dive. Just south of the state park is Puako (Puako Rd., off Hwy. 19). Public access to the beach from Puako Road provides easy entry to some fine reef diving. Deep chasms, sea caves, rock arches, and more abound with varied marine life.

The water is usually very clear at Pawai Bay Marine Reserve (Just north of Old Kona Airport Beach Park, at the beginning of Kuakini Hwy.). This bay near Kailua-Kona has numerous underwater sea caves, arches, and rock formations, plus lots of marine life. It can be busy with snorkel boats but is an easy dive spot. Plane Wreck Point,off Keahole Point, is for expert divers only. Damselfish, fantail, and filefish hover around in the shadows.

One of Kona's best night dive spots is Manta Village (Off the Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort at Keauhou). A booking with a scuba/snorkel night dive operator is required for the short boat ride to the area. If you're a diving or snorkeling fanatic, it's well worth it for the experience of seeing the manta rays.

Dive boats come to Puuhonua O Honaunau (Place of Refuge, Rte. 160, about 20 mi south of Kailua-Kona. www.nps.gov/puho) for the steep drop-offs and dramatic views. You can also get in the water from the shore on the north end.

Hawai'i's Manta Rays

Manta rays, one of Hawaii's most fascinating marine life species, can be seen on some nighttime diving excursions along the Kona and Kohala Coasts. They are generally harmless to divers and don't normally attack people. If you don't want to get wet, head to the beach fronting the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel on the Kohala Coast, where each evening, visitors gather under the lights to watch manta rays feed in the shallows.

The manta ray (manta birostris), called the devil fish by some, is known as hahalua by Hawaiians.

Its wing-like fins, reaching up to 20 feet wide, allow the ray to glide through the water like a bird gliding through air.

The manta ray uses the two large flap-like lobes extending from its eyes to funnel food to its mouth. It eats microscopic plankton, small fish, and tiny crustaceans.

The manta ray, closely related to the shark, can weigh more than 3,000 pounds.

Its skeleton is made of cartilage, not bone.

A female ray gives birth to one or two young at a time; pups can be 45 inches long and weigh 20 pounds at birth.

Equipment, Lessons & Tours

There are quite a few good dive shops on the Kona Coast. Most are happy to take on all customers, but a few focus on specific types of trips. Trip prices vary, depending on whether you're already certified and whether you're diving from a boat or from shore. Instruction with PADI, SDI, or TDI certification in three to five days costs $600-$850. Most instructors rent out dive equipment and snorkel gear, and many rent underwater cameras. A few organize otherworldly manta-ray dives at night or whale-watching cruises in season.

Aloha Dive Company. Native-born Hawaiian and PADI master dive instructor Mike Nakachi, together with wife Buffy (a registered nurse and PADI dive instructor), and Earl Kam (a videographer and PADI dive master) have been instructing since 1990. Although they'll take anybody, they're biased in favor of experienced divers who want unique locations and know how to take care of themselves in deep water. Their boat is fast enough to take you places other companies can't reach. They're fun people with great attitudes and operate the only true kamaaina (Hawaii born-and-raised) outfitter around. Rates begin at $85 for a manta ray night dive and go up to $200 for a three-tank remote dive. 808/325-5560 or 800/708-5662. www.alohadive.com.

Dive Makai. Mainland transplants Mike and Kimberly Henshaw took over the Dive Makai operation from longtime owner Tom Shockley in 2005, but Tom still answers the phone most of the time and heads out on the boat when he can. Far more than a standard-issue trip, a dive with these guys is an educational experience. They take pride in fully debriefing passengers about the spots they're visiting and what they can expect to see there, plus plenty of interesting and quirky facts about the local marine life and reefs. Mike worked with the National Marine Fisheries Service as a biologist in the Marine Mammal Division once upon a time and is happy to share his extensive knowledge with divers. He's also a fantastic instructor and guide, patient and helpful, and always on the lookout to lead his divers to a delightful marine discovery. Rates start at $120 for a two-tank day dive or manta-ray night dive and go up to $300 for a three-tank adventure that takes divers towards the newer canyons formed on the ocean floor closer to the volcano. 808/329-2025. www.divemakai.com.

Jack's Diving Locker. The best place for novice and intermediate divers (certified to 60 feet), Jack's Diving Locker has trained and certified tens of thousands of divers since opening in 1981. The company has two boats that can each take 12 divers. It does a good job looking out for customers and protecting the coral reef. Before each charter the dive master briefs divers on various options and then everyone votes on where to go. Jack's also runs the biggest dive shop on the island and has classrooms and a dive pool for beginning instruction. Kona's best dive bargain for newbies is the introductory shore dive from Kailua Pier for $55. 75-5813 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. 800/345-4807 or 808/329-7585. www.jacksdivinglocker.com.

Torpedo Tours. Mike and Nikki Milligan specialize in small groups, which means you'll spend more time diving and less time hanging out on the boat waiting to dive. Two-tank afternoon dives run $110, one-tank manta ray dives are $89, or you can combine the two and do a late afternoon dive plus a manta ray dive for a very reasonable $130. Torpedo Tours will take snorkelers along with divers, and provides its namesake torpedo scooters to both for free. The scooters allow both divers and snorkelers to cover more ground with less kicking, and are a fun novelty to test out. Honokohau Harbor, Na Pali Kai II boat, 74-425 Kealakehe Pkwy., Kailua-Kona. 808/938-0405. www.torpedoours.com.