Hiking in Big Island

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Hiking

Meteorologists classify the world's weather into 23 climates. Twenty-one are here on the Big Island, and you can experience as many of them as you like. The ancient Hawaiians blazed many trails across their archipelago, and many of these paths can still be used today. Part of the King's Trail at Anaehoomalu winds through a field of lava rocks covered with prehistoric carvings called petroglyphs, meant to communicate stories of births, deaths, marriages, and other family events. Plus, the serenity of remote beaches, such as Papakolea Beach (Green Sand Beach), is accessible only to hikers.

For information on all Big Island's state parks, contact the Department of Land and Natural Resources, State Parks Division (75 Aupuni St., Hilo, 96720. 808/974-6200. www.state.hi.us/dlnr/dsp/hawaii.html).

Best Spots

At Kekaha Kai (Kona Coast) State Park (Hwy. 19, sign about 2 mi north of Keahole-Kona International Airport marks rough road), two 1 1/2-mi-long unpaved roads lead to the Mahaiula Beach and Kua Bay sections of the park. Connecting the two is the 4 1/2-mi Ala Kahakai historic coastal trail. Midway, a hike to the summit of Puu Kuili, a 342-foot-high cinder cone, offers an excellent view of the coastline. It's dry and hot with no drinking water, so be sure to pack sunscreen and bottled water.

The Kealakekua Bay and Captain Cook Monument Trail (Trailhead just off Hwy. 11 at Captain Cook town on Napoopoo Rd. to Kealakekua Bay) is one of Kona's more popular moderately difficult hikes. About 100 yards from the turnoff, the steep, loose gravel and dirt trail descends several hundred feet across old lava flows. There are some steep switchbacks. Shade along the upper section gives way to sun where the trail opens to lava fields. Nearer to the bay, the trail passes through old Hawaiian village ruins and by the Captain Cook Monument, a tall white obelisk on the spot where the famed navigator was killed in 1779 in a dispute with native Hawaiians. The bay is the site of the Kealakekua Underwater Marine Reserve and is popular with divers and snorkelers. The 2 1/2-mi hike is about a three-hour round trip. The hike back up is steep and tiring, so allow plenty of time. Park along the road. Bring sunscreen, hat, water, and food.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (Near Volcano Village, Hwy. 11, 30 mi south of Hilo. 808/985-6000. www.hawaii.volcanoes.national-park.com) is perhaps the Big Island's premier hiking center. The 150 mi of trails provide closeup views of fern and rain forest environments, cinder cones, steam vents, lava fields, and current lava flow activity. Day hikes range from easy to moderately difficult, and from one or two hours to a full day. For a bigger challenge, consider an overnight or multi-day backcountry hike with a stay in a park cabin. To do so, you must first obtain a free permit at the Kilauea Visitor Center.

Guided Hikes

To get to some of the best trails and places, it's worth going with a skilled guide. Costs range from $95 to $165, and some hikes include picnic meals or refreshments and gear, such as binoculars, ponchos, and walking sticks. The outfitters mentioned here also offer customized adventure tours.

Hawaii Forest & Trail. Expert naturalist guides take you to 500-foot Kalopa Falls in North Kohala, through the 4,000-year-old craters at Mount Hualalai (the volcano that created all those lava fields along the coast), and on bird-watching expeditions throughout the island. In addition to its other expeditions, the company offers tours in Pinzgauers (Austrian all-terrain vehicles) that are perfect for groups, especially those that include off-road junkies. It offers tours into lava tubes and through normally inaccessible areas of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.[. 808/331-8505 or 800/464-1993. www.hawaii-forest.com

Hawaiian Walkways. Hawaiian Walkways conducts several tours -- a Kona Cloud Forest botanical walk, waterfall hikes, coastal adventures, a hike on the "saddle" road between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, and jaunts through Hawaii Volcanoes National Park -- as well as custom-designed trips.[. 808/775-0372 or 800/457-7759. www.hawaiianwalkways.com