An ancestral air pervades at this intimate yet lively restaurant on 5th Avenue, where the Sicilian-born chef (and part owner) drives an authentic celebration of the Italian table. Opened in 2013, the concept is a refreshing departure from long, ornate menus and focuses on simple, finely produced, house-made Italian cuisine in a rustic, refined setting. Everything wooden was crafted from a dilapidated barn in north Florida, and the 1940s-era bricks came from a reclaimed Chicago firehouse. The signature fennel sausage is homemade from a family recipe, and the kitchen cures its own pancetta, makes its own mozzarella and ricotta cheeses, and makes and extrudes all pastas on-site. Peasant recipes for things like rabbit and wild boar shine when they're offered seasonally, but the tortelloni with braised short ribs pleases nightly.