Square Grouper

Square Grouper Review

Although this restaurant's food draws raves, its name earns snickers. (A "square grouper" is slang for bales of marijuana dropped into the ocean during the drug-running 1970s.) Owner Lynn Bell gives the dishes whimsical touches, making them look as good as they taste. The seared sesame-encrusted tuna is lightly crunchy outside, like butter inside. The square grouper sandwich is a steaming pan-sautéed fillet topped with onion rings and key-lime tartar sauce on a ciabatta roll. In an unassuming strip mall, the dining room is surprisingly suave, with butcher paper-lined tables and a wood-topped zinc bar.