Along the Barron River, seafood houses, fishing boats, and crab traps populate one shoreline; mangroves the other. Selling fresh off the boat, some seafood houses added picnic tables and eventually grew into restaurants. Family-owned Triad Seafood Market & Cafe is one, with a screened dining area and additional outdoor seating under a breezeway and on a deck (heated in winter) overhanging the river. Here you can savor fresh seafood at its finest, or have it shipped. It's nothing fancy (although smoked fish and oyster caesar salad are on the menu), but you'd be hard-pressed to find a better grouper sandwich. Fried green tomatoes are tasty, too. An all-you-can-eat fresh stone crab feast with butter or mustard sauce (October 15 to May 15; market prices fluctuate wildly and can be over $100) can thin your wallet, especially for the jumbos. Lunch starts at 11 am with fried shrimp, oyster, crab cake, and soft-shell blue crab baskets, plus Reubens, Philly cheesesteaks, burgers, and inexpensive kid meals.