You could find a fancier place to get your steak on, but why bother? Superb steaks and ribs bring locals and visitors to this dark busy spot. Booths are lighted by individual, low-hanging lamps that provide intimacy but enough light to read the menu. Try the 12-ounce New York strip or sirloin, the 22-ounce porterhouse, the 8-ounce filet mignon, or a rack of tender ribs. Other popular menu items are the pulled-pork spring rolls, bronzed fresh fish, wood-fired chicken, and chocolate volcano for dessert.