Guests at this oceanfront inn, built to resemble an 1890s sea-captain's house, can't say enough about the impeccable personal service, legendary breakfasts, and enjoyable evening social hour. Start the day with dill scrambled eggs or French toast, and end it with evening hors d'oeuvres and wine in the library. Ocean-side units have great water views, albeit through disappointingly small windows. The Tradewinds Suite, with an ocean view, private patio, and plantation-style shutters, is the most romantic. A chair-lined porch lets you rock in ocean breezes, and on cold nights you can cluster around the living-room fireplace. An adjacent cottage has additional rooms and a suite.