Thanks to word of mouth, this northern Italian restaurant is constantly full of the most refined clink and clatter along often-seedy Washington Avenue. Because of inventive and fresh dishes you might stray from the printed menu, and order one of the many daily specials. A representative appetizer is poached asparagus served over polenta triangles with a Gorgonzola sauce. Stuffed pastas, including spinach crepes overflowing with ricotta, can seem heavy but taste light;
fish dishes yield a rosemary-marinated tuna or salmon in a rosemary-shiitake-lemon sauce.