Morton's has the atmosphere of a private club, complete with dark mahogany paneling, spacious leather booths, subdued lighting, and crisp white tablecloths. Not bad for a chain (there's another in North Miami Beach). The open kitchen shows you how a real steak restaurant prepares double filet mignon, New York strip sirloin, and broiled Block Island swordfish steak. The most unfussy item here is also the best bargain -- an umpteen-ounce sirloin burger with a side of hash browns, only available at lunch.
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