If you haven't familiarized yourself with Colombian cuisine, let this minimally decorated minichain initiate you. And a delicious intro it can be, too -- crisp empanaditas, stuffed with ground meat and potatoes, are elevated by green chili sauce. Don't fill up, though. Main-dish soups, especially the sancocho, a stew including hen, tripe, oxtail, and corn on the cob -- basically, whatever the cook has on hand -- comfort the hungry soul. And so does the signature dish, patacón pisao, a huge, flattened fried plantain on which you can spread such condiments as shrimp, chicken, shredded meat, beans, and guacamole.
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